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Routes in Turtle Lake Cliffs
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5.8 Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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5.8- crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Black Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coyote's Tooth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flake and Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fringe Central T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fringe Dweller S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ghost Boy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Green Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Howling at the Moon T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ichabod T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ichabod Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Kuntz T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left-Leaning, Radical Fringe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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McVean and Pilon Rule! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Regurgitator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Robert Mason Memorial Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Clay Patton and David Kozak? |
| Page Views: | 1,341 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on Mar 29, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This fine crack leads to the top of the cliff, but only the first two pitches are worth doing. The third is choss.
Look for a two bolt anchor (there are not many) with an angling crack to the right. This is the start.
Pitch 1: 40 feet, 5.10b/c. Start on 5.8 terrain to a nice, thin, hand crack finish. The 5.10b/c is only a few moves near the top and protects very well. 1 bolt, 1 pin anchor.
Pitch 2: 60 feet, 5.8. Continue up the featured crack with fun pockets. Near the top it is extremely loose. 2 bolt anchor. Did I mention super loose?
Pitch 3: 40 feet, 5.6-7? I didn't do this pitch, but looking at the garbage on the ledge before the final headwall, it didn't seem worth it.
A 60m rope will be just enough rope to rappel from the top of the second pitch.
Look for a two bolt anchor (there are not many) with an angling crack to the right. This is the start.
Pitch 1: 40 feet, 5.10b/c. Start on 5.8 terrain to a nice, thin, hand crack finish. The 5.10b/c is only a few moves near the top and protects very well. 1 bolt, 1 pin anchor.
Pitch 2: 60 feet, 5.8. Continue up the featured crack with fun pockets. Near the top it is extremely loose. 2 bolt anchor. Did I mention super loose?
Pitch 3: 40 feet, 5.6-7? I didn't do this pitch, but looking at the garbage on the ledge before the final headwall, it didn't seem worth it.
A 60m rope will be just enough rope to rappel from the top of the second pitch.
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