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Ice/Mountaineering Boots

Original Post
GnarthVader · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 105

I am moving from Alabama to Vermont in January, and I would like to get a pair of mountain boots. I have a pro deal with Scarpa that runs out in Oct. I want to use the deal to buy a pair of boots that I can use to get into ice climbing. I know very little about what I should get, but after reading about their boots, I am leaning toward the Freney. I like the weight of the Charmoz, but I don't think it is burly enough for ice climbing. Is this correct? The Charmoz seems to be more of a lightweight mountaineering boot that is not suitable for technical ice. Would the Freney be suitable for ice, or should I get something else? Can anyone shed any light on this subject? What would you buy?

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

You are correct in your assumptions...you can you the charmoz for ice, but over the Freney will be your go to boot. Warmer, stiffer etc.

I use my Charmoz for summertime. The Freneys are a great boot.

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325

I don't currently know anyone who uses the Freney for ice largely because the first two generations were not waterproof (1st gen) and not warm enough (2nd gen). A friend actually froze his toes in a pair. In the Scarpa brand I'd go with the new Mont Blanc or Phantom Guide for ice and/or mountaineering in New England or Canada. They're also going to be stiffer which is a good thing if you're just getting into ice climbing plus more durable being leather.

TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65

Out of curiousity, what is bringing you to the green mountain state?

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

You can't beat Scarpa. The Freney's.
I've got a pair of Cerro Torre's (leather), but they
are AWESOME! (and not available anymore, but they
build great boots)!

Brad Mills · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 20

The Mont Blancs will probably only cost you a few bucks more with your pro deal.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Get some insulated supergaiters and the Freneys will be fine for anything that your ice-newbie fingers can tolerate. Another nice enhancement - add thin insoles under the stock footbeds if you can.

Curt Nelson · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 435

What size do you wear? I have Freneys in a 42.5 (size 9) They have been up Rainier twice and a few ice pitches around Colorado... excellent condition. Plenty warm and dry. $175.

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Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325
Curt Nelson wrote:They have been up Rainier twice and a few ice pitches around Colorado... excellent condition. Plenty warm and dry.
Well shoot - Rainier and a bit of Colorado ice (little enough that they still look new) - sure doesn't get much colder than that, certainly not in New England
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Steve Williams wrote:You can't beat Scarpa. The Freney's. I've got a pair of Cerro Torre's (leather), but they are AWESOME! (and not available anymore, but they build great boots)!
The red ones were my first "real" boot. I just got rid of them for some nepals, but they were killer.
GnarthVader · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 105
Lafferty Daniel wrote:Out of curiousity, what is bringing you to the green mountain state?
I will be finishing up law school in Vermont. I am currently at The University of Alabama, but I'll be a visiting student at Vermont Law School starting this January. If anyone knows of where I can get any good ski deals, let me know.
GnarthVader · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 105
Curt Nelson wrote:What size do you wear? I have Freneys in a 42.5 (size 9) They have been up Rainier twice and a few ice pitches around Colorado... excellent condition. Plenty warm and dry. $175.
Thanks, but I'm a size 45.
A G · · Boulder · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10

The Freney is a good boot all Scarpa boots are good but the Phantom Guide and/or Mont Blanc are going to be your best bet for that area and many other areas. If you have a pro deal I recommend buying the warmer and more durable boots that Scarpa offers.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I have a new pair of Scarpa Phantom 45's that I'm looking to sell.

mountainproject.com/v/for_s…

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

I have a pair of Scarpa Phantom Guides. Really like them. Warmer than other single boots, and lighter/more nimble than double boots.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118
Kevin Craig wrote: Well shoot - Rainier and a bit of Colorado ice (little enough that they still look new) - sure doesn't get much colder than that, certainly not in New England
Are you serious? Colorado winters look like the Bahamas compared to New England...

The "lake effect" coming off the Great Lakes causes bizarre and brutal winter weather patterns in the Adirondacks and most of New England. In addition to lower temps, we also see very high ambient humidity which sucks the warmth right out of your body, even when it's not terribly cold outside. Colorado has bluebird days, low humidity, and higher average temperatures. It's why Denver is so crowded and all the ice climbing in CO is mostly a hook fest :)

To the OP: I would get a pair of Phantom Lights at the very least or go warmer. The Freney is a great boot and fairly popular around here because it's super light and super technical, but it's usually owned as a second (lighter) boot. About half my ice days this past season were hovering around the single digits. I had a pair of fat double boots that were worth their (very heavy) weight in gold. Some days the only warm part of my body was my feet.

Also, Scarpa has a weird fit. I would very strongly recommend getting to a local shop and trying on a pair before placing your order. You'll probably guess the size wrong if you don't.
GnarthVader · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 105

My impression is that they are a bit old school, but I also have the option of buying the Inverno and Omega double plastic boots. Do any of you more experienced ice climbers have any insight on these versus the newer boots like the Mont Blanc or Phantom?

bigwallrog · · the farside · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 20

For what it's worth from the guy with the coldest feet on earth
I would skip the freenys all together i had a pair and the were by far the WORST boot I've ever had on my feet they sucked for everything from ice climbing to hiking in and out on Longs peak ect ect ect they are by no means waterproof and colder than a whores heart.....

That being said I have only good things to say about the phantom guides I have been climbing on them for a couple seasons now and have no complaints I'm going to get the 6000s for this year as I plan on some Cody shenanagans and that place is COLD

I have also had good luck with la sportiva boots

As for plastic boots it's a matter of fit some climb better than others but are by no means as good as a leather/synth boot for feel the best plastic I've ever climbed in
was the Omega bar none

boots you are going to find out are like ice tools in some situations leather /synth is your go to ice/mixed techy stuff than plastic or a good synth doubble
cheers

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436
bigwallrog wrote:That being said I have only good things to say about the phantom guides I have been climbing on them for a couple seasons now and have no complaints
How have you managed to climb on the Phantom Guides for a couple of seasons? Are we talking about the same boot? I didn't think that the Guides were even available last season.

Tim Davis wrote:My impression is that they are a bit old school, but I also have the option of buying the Inverno and Omega double plastic boots. Do any of you more experienced ice climbers have any insight on these versus the newer boots like the Mont Blanc or Phantom?
If you're going plastic, get the Omegas. They are worlds better than the Inverno in comfort and climbing performance. They are as light as any of the "new school" boots.
Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325
Jon H wrote: Are you serious? Colorado winters look like the Bahamas compared to New England... The "lake effect" coming off the Great Lakes causes bizarre and brutal winter weather patterns in the Adirondacks and most of New England. In addition to lower temps, we also see very high ambient humidity which sucks the warmth right out of your body, even when it's not terribly cold outside. Colorado has bluebird days, low humidity, and higher average temperatures. It's why Denver is so crowded and all the ice climbing in CO is mostly a hook fest :) To the OP: I would get a pair of Phantom Lights at the very least or go warmer. The Freney is a great boot and fairly popular around here because it's super light and super technical, but it's usually owned as a second (lighter) boot. About half my ice days this past season were hovering around the single digits. I had a pair of fat double boots that were worth their (very heavy) weight in gold. Some days the only warm part of my body was my feet. Also, Scarpa has a weird fit. I would very strongly recommend getting to a local shop and trying on a pair before placing your order. You'll probably guess the size wrong if you don't.
Sorry Jon, I guess you didn't recognize the irony in my post. The points you make so well are EXACTLY what I was referring to i.e. saying that a boot is plenty warm for Rainier or Colorado means exactly zip when it comes to New England winters.
Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325
bigwallrog wrote:For what it's worth from the guy with the coldest feet on earth I would skip the freenys all together i had a pair and the were by far the WORST boot I've ever had on my feet they sucked for everything from ice climbing to hiking in and out on Longs peak ect ect ect they are by no means waterproof and colder than a whores heart.....
I rest my case. If this plus my personal and vicarious experience with the Freney's isn't enough for you, then I wish you good luck with them.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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