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One-Eyed Cat Wall
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Beat the Devil T 
Classic Cowboy T 
Flying High as the Sky T 
Had a Lean on My Sole S 
Hole in the Ozone S 
Iceman Cometh S 
Mask of the Devil S 
One-Eyed Cat S 
Voodoo Glow Skulls S 

Iceman Cometh 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pete Paredes & Brad Singer, May 2007
Page Views: 400
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Finishing the vertical mid-section of Iceman Comet...

Description 

This is, IMHO, the best route on this wall! This is the leftmost of the four bolt lines on the east face of One-Eyed Cat Wall. It opens, like the others nearby, with a very interesting start. Work the underclings and small edges up the slightly negative headwall to a ledge. Clip the last bolt and tackle a second crux: a delicate sequence on mostly featureless slab. It is best to rap this route or belay from the top as extending the anchor (to remove rope drag) will eliminate the cruxy finish. Rappel to descend.

Location 

This is the second bolt line, counting from the climber's left.

Protection 

5 bolts, bolted anchor


Photos of Iceman Cometh Slideshow Add Photo
Photo/topo for One-Eyed Cat Wall (South End), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.  <br />
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for One-Eyed Cat Wall (South End), Holc...
Photo/topo for the One-Eyed Cat Wall (East Face), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.  <br />
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for the One-Eyed Cat Wall (East Face), ...

Comments on Iceman Cometh Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Decent climbing on suspect plates with the crux moving past the 2nd bolt. The moves past the last bolt are easier than it first appears and require getting your feet up and trusting the friction. The guidebook indicate 6 bolts on this route, but there's only 5.

The anchor is poorly located and will trash your rope if not careful - best to extend it with slings and/or rap off.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The moves on this route are amazing! This is the best route on the wall. Leaned back and juggy, with a few reaches to keep it interesting. Definite must do!
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route with a similar finish to One-Eyed Cat. The steep section past the first three bolts is a blast.