Iceman Cometh 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Pete Paredes & Brad Singer, May 2007 |
| Submitted By: | Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008 |
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Finishing the vertical mid-section of Iceman Comet...
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Description This is, IMHO, the best route on this wall! This is the leftmost of the four bolt lines on the east face of One-Eyed Cat Wall. It opens, like the others nearby, with a very interesting start. Work the underclings and small edges up the slightly negative headwall to a ledge. Clip the last bolt and tackle a second crux: a delicate sequence on mostly featureless slab. It is best to rap this route or belay from the top as extending the anchor (to remove rope drag) will eliminate the cruxy finish. Rappel to descend.
Location This is the second bolt line, counting from the climber's left.
Protection 5 bolts, bolted anchor
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for One-Eyed Cat Wall (South End), Holc...
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BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for the One-Eyed Cat Wall (East Face), ...
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| Comments on Iceman Cometh |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| Decent climbing on suspect plates with the crux moving past the 2nd bolt. The moves past the last bolt are easier than it first appears and require getting your feet up and trusting the friction. The guidebook indicate 6 bolts on this route, but there's only 5.
The anchor is poorly located and will trash your rope if not careful - best to extend it with slings and/or rap off. |
By Nelson Day
From: Victorville, CA
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.10b
| The moves on this route are amazing! This is the best route on the wall. Leaned back and juggy, with a few reaches to keep it interesting. Definite must do! |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| Fun route with a similar finish to One-Eyed Cat. The steep section past the first three bolts is a blast. |
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