Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mt. Whitney
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Iceberg Spire" 
East Buttress 
East Face 
Mountaineer's Route, The 
North Face 

"Iceberg Spire" 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,456
Submitted By: markguycan on Jul 14, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: pitch 3 maybe combined with 4. pitch 5 and 6 are ...

Description 

this probably has another name but it is not listed by Secor, Croft or Moynier. Nor does anyone I've spoken to know about it. Never-the-less- it is a worthwhile peak- (if you have more info please share)
Climbs the right most dihedral system. P1: varied cracks 5.8, P2: right leaning crack system up toward corner, switch to higher of two cracks midway then up to ledge with 2 piton belay- 10a. P3: unusual dbl cracks at 90degrees inside corner (side by side foot jams and bilateral gaston)- 5.9 belay on small pillar with gear, P4: steep flared hands with poor flaky feet 11- to chimney and ledge on right. This cruxy pitch could be avoided by staying in corner to the right at probably 5.9 P5: varied cracks to chimney to big ledge- long pitch 5.8 P6: step right from ledge then up steep clean corner (small gear), then hand traverse right to next corner to small roof/ledge then up final chimney to summit 10b. descend off the north side - easy 5th and 4th class downclimbing to ledges and scree the contour around to whitney-Russell col.


Location 

between the Moutaineer's Route and the Whitney- Russell col: the most prominent, aesthetic sub-peak above Iceberg Lake


Protection 

nuts plus cams doubles to #2 camalot plus 1 #3.



Comments on "Iceberg Spire" Add Comment
Show which comments
By bio
From: mesa, az
Jul 15, 2008

crux is 5.11- but a great line, though a bit grungy it's worth it, espectially the last airy pitch.
S

By Neil Kauffman
Sep 2, 2012

I believe this route is called Cardiovascular Seizure, it's listed in the Secor guide. Climbed it a few years ago, pretty good climbing and a mellow day compared to some of the big neighbors.