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Ice Conditions 2007/8
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Oct 31, 2007
Rock Climbing Photo: Rrrrr
(As per Avery -- good idea to start a new topic from 2006/7)
ps - we're not related, I think, but he's not too bad for a Nelson ;)


Lincoln - 10-27/8-07 Main flow somewhat in but goes fat to super shitty-thin. Some 16s but mostly 13s in warm conditions; basically kinda sketchy on the exit moves. The sun is hitting the headwall & the pillars. Pillars not touching down. Maybe 2-3 weeks for better conditions. The decent through talus sucked ass!

From Avery RE: RMNP, Loch Vale --- Josh, the ice off the trail approaching loch vale was not in 1 week ago. Some ice was just starting to form, but none was touching down or reasonable enough to climb yet without destroying. We need more moisture and freeze/thaw!

From Kevin -- RE: Alexander's:

Climbed 5 pitches on Saturday 10/27. First 3 pitches (2.5 run together w/ a 70m rope) are good ice and snow. There is no ice above the chockstone rendering that pitch M5(+?)-ish from a consensus of 3 climbers. The pitch directly above the chockstone pitch has a thin smear of ice in the corner/chimney but is leadable (by my partner anyway). We rapped from the top of this pitch. Approach after rounding Chasm Lake is a bit of a pain due to post-holing between boulders. Lambs Slide has a bit of exposed hard ice but is mostly a decently consolidated snow climb.

From Chris - Had a great off season climb of the Keyhole Ridge this Saturday (10/20/07). As the route is typically listed in the rock sections of guidebooks, away from the classic alpine routes in the park, it is often overlooked for winter/mixed style ascents. However, the route is a fantastic outing when in more mixed conditions, with easy to moderate technical difficulties.

We brought two ice tools and crampons but climbed the route using one two and bare boots. The crampons turned out to be useful on the decent down the north face. Don't expect much ice, but plenty of mixed snow and rock climbing.

Also in the area: The Smear of Fear is looking to be in difficult but climbable shape; Alexander's is looking good as well. Dreamweaver got some traffic, it looked to have a few bare rock sections. We got look at The Window from Chasm View, but it looked to be just snow in the ramp leading to the namesake feature.

There was another report for Smear was in but for P1. There are a few pics on this site.

Ouray Ice Park
Opening 12-15-07

Basically, still warm & need more moisture, be careful. My exit moves on the easy 3 on Lincoln were dicey with exposed & loose rock. (Imagine that in an alpine setting? Well, yes, but this flow is basically & usually a straight forward fat 3 and good for breaking in first of the season leads).
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,504 points
Nov 1, 2007
Rock Climbing Photo: KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Anyone been up to the Black Lake area, BL Slabs? West Gully?? Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Nov 7, 2007
Rock Climbing Photo: just being me...
Kevin Craig wrote:
Anyone been up to the Black Lake area, BL Slabs? West Gully?? says the slabs and the west gully are both in as of 11/5. here's the link, complete with pictures at the bottom...
From Boulder, CO
Joined May 22, 2006
36 points
Nov 7, 2007
FWIW, note those pictures are not necessarily from this year. My buddy thought those pics were this year. As of 4 days ago, West Gully's in, but it's not that fat. Black Lake Slabs are not that fat. Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,515 points
Nov 7, 2007
Rock Climbing Photo: Flakey Pull Roof v5
Vail is not even close.....
A few curtains are forming but nothing that could be considered climable.
Let's pray that this weekend gives us some snow!
logan johnson
From West Copper, Co
Joined Mar 1, 2006
332 points
Dec 17, 2007
Rock Climbing Photo: Redtail Hawk, circling nest 40' up the tower at An...
current conditions and updates on any area for '07-'08 are welcome on my thread here:

I live in the Wasatch Front area, but those crazy Canadians always seem to tempt me with stories of ice too...
Joined Aug 16, 2006
1,118 points
Dec 18, 2007
Has anyone been up to Loch Vale lately, how is it? Specifically, Crystal Meth/Loch Ness Monster area. Dan Haedtke
From The Fort, CO
Joined Oct 25, 2007
0 points
Dec 19, 2007
Rock Climbing Photo: Credits: Marty TwoBulls  indiancountry...
heard 3rd hand conditions are good though believing that is spec at best. If your anxious, I'd check out the link that scooter mentioned above

Climbing Life

Eli updated yesterday the 17th. For specific routes, scroll down and he's offered up his personal em for direct communicado. He's Mr.RMNP so far in my book. During the week = best time
Joined Feb 1, 2006
724 points
Jan 11, 2008
Greetings everyone - I hope the ice season is treating you well.

Any recent updates on any of the UT ice, just wondering if the recent warm weather storms have had a substantial negative impact on the ice:

LLC - Scruffy Band
Santaquin (Squash Head, Back Off)

Any info anyone has on anything would be very appreciated

From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jan 11, 2008
0 points
Oct 23, 2008
Looking for wisdom of crowds on climbing the V-notch mid November. Will I freeze my ass off, will I be post holing all the way in.

From sunny AZ
Chris Craig
Joined Jul 11, 2007
126 points
Dec 1, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: im stoked on the quality of this wonderful climb!
In ADK ice Chapel Pond Canyon is good to go Canyon climbs are very top-ropable and Hot Shot, Crystal Ice Tower, Chouinard's and more have been led.. I here Cascade Ice Dance was touching down (but a dangerous lead) and practice areas are climbable.

Pitchoff, Screw and Climax is very thin but has been led, Arm and Hammer, Tendinitis area is getting climbed.
Michael John Gray
From Queensbury, NY
Joined Mar 11, 2006
799 points
Dec 5, 2008
Anyone have a report on Lake City conditions? Specifically Sherman? Jeff Bevan
Joined Jan 1, 2000
27 points
Dec 11, 2008
Jeff Bevan wrote:
Anyone have a report on Lake City conditions? Specifically Sherman?

Hey climbed first three pitches of sherman last saturday and it was good. there has been some snow fall here lately, very high probability of slides so watch out. Very doable though, good stuff.
From Boulder
Joined Feb 25, 2006
826 points
Dec 22, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Ghostride da whip!
Silverplume was in good shape yesterday (12/21/2008).

It was very crowded but everyone worked together nicely and made the most of it.

Go early because the ice gets melty in the afternoon sun.

Clear Creek was pretty much bare.

James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Joined Aug 8, 2004
986 points
Dec 22, 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack Ripper
Moffat tunnel is good but not fat. Formed on left and right sides with rock in-between. Room for two ropes. Dave Pilot
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jun 19, 2004
63 points

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