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Submitted By: kBobby on Dec 11, 2006
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Chance of a Thunderstorm
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Chance of a Thunderstorm
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The Spear of Fear 1-20-07


High quality Ice.

For a recent weather history (up to 30 days) check out this remote weather station (at 8000 feet):

Getting There 

Follow the directions to Joe's Valley Reservoir in the bouldering sections. Most of the ice here is in Straight Canyon, or right next to the reservoir itself.

Climbing Season

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ice:
Deadbolt   WI4-5     Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   
Melty Way   WI4-5     Ice, 2 pitches, 180'   
CCC Falls   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches   
Donorcicle   WI5     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   
Browse More Classics in Ice

Featured Route For Ice
Spear of Fear in WI 4+ condition.

Spear of Fear WI5 PG13  UT : Joe's Valley : Ice
Classic route and can be quite reasonable climbing if the beehive cone is solid (WI 4-ish) and the pillar is short. Crux may be finding the route in solid enough condition to climb with the cone connected to the upper tube pillar. Sees much direct sunlight, so, will only form in very cold temperatures. Usually has water flow down the tube, so, take care to not break through. First approach pitch (WI 3-ish) can be walked around to the right, if sunlight damaging the climb might be an issue an...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for Ice
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Ice Climbing Topo
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By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jan 8, 2008

(Fixed for 2013)
Here is a good link for weather information at Joe's Valley. Click on "Air Temperature" link for a line graph of recent temperatures:

Emery Water Conservancy District - Weather

By josh holmes
Dec 21, 2008

anybody been out there lately? how's things forming up?

By Alec
Nov 30, 2011

Both of those weather links are broken -- here's the correct one: