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Ice Screws - what's the most usable length I should buy?
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Jan 28, 2013
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp
I prefer mostly 13cms, one stubby (10cm) for thin ice and one 22cm for anchors/V-threads.

Like Dan said, the strength is in the teeth, not the tube but that is assuming solid, well-bonded ice which you obviously aren't going to find all the time.
Andrew Mayer
Joined Nov 14, 2010
55 points
Jan 28, 2013
Middle
Kirby1013 wrote:
The 22 cm screw is going to reach good quality ice that the 13 cm may not.


Truth. 13's are great until the only good ice you can get a screw into has an air pocket three inches in. Then your stubby just kind spins and you wonder if it'll even hold body weight much less a big ride if you pump.

Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points
Jan 28, 2013
First morning at Indian Creek!!!
darin wrote:
Agreed. 13cm and 16cm seem to see the most mileage for me. These days, Ill often only carry one or two 19+cm screws for belays and V threads.


I agree with Darin.

Also a good read on the issue:

illgadd.com/new-years-tips-for...
J Antin
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2009
896 points
Jan 28, 2013
For those who quote Will Gadd, don't forget to quote this as well:

Dig hard to get to good ice for screws.

Sure the 13cm screw has the same thread length as the 16cm, 19cm or even the 22cm, but I don't have an adze on either pair of my ice tools & find a little more comfort with longer screws that can dig deeper into more solid ice. Then again what do I know about ice climbing, ya'all crazy.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
143 points
Jan 29, 2013
Look.  Imma git them coconut chips.  Trust.
Before I knew better, I bought a ton of the longest Grivel 360s, couple of the medium size.

Great screws - my favorite that I've used. Small hanger to fit in tight spots, spin in like a demon. Racking is okay once you get your system down.

I've since added 4 of their shortest screw (12cm). Those, plus the couple 16cm, and a couple long dogs do the trick.
Adam Burch
Joined Jan 9, 2012
622 points
Jan 29, 2013
Good comments! Thanks for the video Dan. I agree if you have great ice then 13 cms should be good.

Wally
Wally
From Denver
Joined Apr 12, 2006
31 points
Jan 29, 2013
what I carry is a BD express screws I like using same brand screws and not mixing brands, things rack better.

1 10cm -Save for that one thin deperate area
4 13 cm- primary lead screws
4 16 CM-Primary lead screws
2 19 CM -useally I save these for the anchors.
1 22cm -Useally I use for V threads.

If a 13 or a 16 hits rotten ice either move on or grab a longer screw. I hate placing big screws on lead but sometimes you have to.
Jeff J
From Bozeman
Joined Sep 15, 2010
108 points
Feb 9, 2013
I use bd express as well, never had an issue. I've got a decent selection of sizes but most in the bag are 13s, a few 10s, a couple of 17s (old school) and a couple of 19s. One 22 for v-threads. Generally, if the ice is fat my strategy is longer at the bottom with screamers and shorter at the top with draws etc. Of course this is variable given the conditions, but that is my normal approach. I use the screamers low due to potentially higher fall forces than high on the pitch. Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Joined Nov 13, 2003
23 points


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