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Ice Screws - what's the most usable length I should buy?

Original Post
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Just getting ready to buy some ice screws for Northeast waterfall climbing.

What is the most usable length desired generally for ice screws for most waterall climbing? How many cm's?

Also - I have no experience with either the BD's or the Petzl's. What do most folks think is one of the best screws for the money out there right now?

I've always carried a couple of Lowe/Camp SNARGS on my rack just for soemthing that can be driven in FAST in a pinch as well - tho a PITA to remove aftrward.

Thanks,

seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

I like BD turbo express screws. As far as size, I guess it all depends on how thick the ice is that you're climbing lol.

Check out gear vendors online, mgear.com always seems to have good sales on ice screws (20% off coupons and such)....Then again lots of great deals on here for screws as well.

Seth

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

OK Seth, thanks...

logan johnson · · West Copper, Co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 315

I use both the BD's and Petzl Laser Sonic's. The Petzl's take some getting used to; but I prefer them over the BD's.
Go shorter than you might think. I have way too many 18cm and over screws and I often find myself wishing I had more 10 and 13's.

JonW · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

Nearly all of your screws should 13 cm. Have one or two 10 cm for thin conditions. And one longer one for V-threads.

Dom Caron · · Welsford, New Brunswick Canada · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,370

Northeast - 16cm BD Express

darin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 100
logan johnson wrote:IGo shorter than you might think. I have way too many 18cm and over screws and I often find myself wishing I had more 10 and 13's.
Agreed. 13cm and 16cm seem to see the most mileage for me. These days, Ill often only carry one or two 19+cm screws for belays and V threads.
jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 230

It depends on the ice but I think for most people 13's is where it's at. I think it might of been Will Gadd's site where they did some testing in lake ice and came to the conclusion that 13's were sufficient in good ice. Good ice being the key word. I generally carry more 13's and 16's and then one or two 19 or 22 cm screws for v-threads or belays.

Oh and I love the BD express screws. Hate the Petzl screws. Not a huge fan of the Grivel's. Those are really the only ones I've used.

Dan Allard · · West Chester, PA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,070

As far as best screws, try Grivel if you haven't - I've been using the Helix and it honestly feels like you are cheating compared to BD's. They are super EASY to start, smooth going in and are of excellent craftsmanship and finish. It seems people jump to conclusions assuming the different design would make it difficult to rack but I have not found that to be the case in actual use. The Speedys make the entire placement process even simpler and more efficient with the pre-attached sling so you can spend your energy climbing more rather than fussing with pro.

Looking at MSRPs The BD Turbo Express, Petzl Lazer Sonic, and Grivel Helix all are exactly the same price, and with anything on the internet anymore, once you decide what you want, you just have to shop around a little bit for the best price.

Regarding length, Grivel makes just 3 sizes - again less to worry about reducing rack up time and hang time when it comes to placement. The small and medium sized ones (13 and 16cm respectively) are what I carry. I'll be getting a large (20cm) or two for when the occasion arises and for V threading, but it seems at the longer length (thinking >20cm), you are spending more energy cranking them in (if the ice is even deep enough) than value you gain in protection.
I'll probably pick up a super stubby from BD too just in case only because Grivel doesnt currently make a super short screw.

Good luck and safe climbing-
Dan

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

I use the BD turbo express and they've performed pretty well for me. I have a whole medley of screws, but more in the 13 and 16 cm range. I actually put in a my lone old 22cm turbo screw the other day on a climb and it was painfully slow. I wouldn't bother buying any 19 cm screws if I had to do it again.

beccs · · Ontario Canada · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 200

13's and 16's (but heavier on the 13's). Have a couple of 10's for thin ice (or more if you're climbing thin ice all the time) and a couple of 22's for belays and really snow coned ice.

I have mostly BDs but love having some Grivels in the longer lengths.

randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

One advantage of the petzl laser sonic ice screws is the rotating hanger. This really helps me when I'm following as you can unscrew it with the quickdraw still attached.

I don't lead ice yet as this is only my second season but the rotating hanger could also help on lead. You could clip into the screw as you're placing it so you are theoretically safe even though the screw is not all the way in.

The petzl laser sonic and the BD turbo express ice screws place the same for me when making a belay anchor. As I said above, I have not placed screws on lead.

scott cooney · · La Casa Taco · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 85

I've always used BD screws BUT Petzl had their new design out at the OR show over the weekend and a block of ice to play with placing them. personally I will be switching over once they hit the market, going to have the flip speed driver like BD but with the super aggresive teeth for easy starts.

randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291
scott cooney wrote:I've always used BD screws BUT Petzl had their new design out at the OR show over the weekend and a block of ice to play with placing them. personally I will be switching over once they hit the market, going to have the flip speed driver like BD but with the super aggresive teeth for easy starts.
Scott,
Did they retain the swiveling hanger? I like their hangers as you can easily attach two carabines to it.
scott cooney · · La Casa Taco · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 85

the ones I played with have hangers like the BDs so the clip hanger itself doenst spin anymore. they have two versions comming out but both have the same bd style hanger, stong point of the second version is they use an aluminum tube to reduce weight big time, but the teeth are steel threaded and then pressed into the end so it'll never spin off the tube. an other strong point is the threads on the standard tube will be rounded over so they won't bing up as easily and wont cut your pants/harness/pack but they still cut into the ice just as easily and strong

randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291
scott cooney wrote:the ones I played with have hangers like the BDs so the clip hanger itself doenst spin anymore. they have two versions comming out but both have the same bd style hanger, stong point of the second version is they use an aluminum tube to reduce weight big time, but the teeth are steel threaded and then pressed into the end so it'll never spin off the tube. an other strong point is the threads on the standard tube will be rounded over so they won't bing up as easily and wont cut your pants/harness/pack but they still cut into the ice just as easily and strong
Just read a review article on them. The aluminum screws with steel threads / ends sound cool for alpine use. I love that they will be selling a sharpening tool so you can do it yourself. That sounds great.
scott cooney · · La Casa Taco · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 85

AH CRAP! forgot to mention the sharpening tool but its pretty sweet too! should retail for the same price as a screw

Dan Allard · · West Chester, PA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,070
scott cooney wrote: an other strong point is the threads on the standard tube will be rounded over so they won't bing up as easily and wont cut your pants/harness/pack but they still cut into the ice just as easily and strong
Grivel screws are made like this already
Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Wow - surprised at the general consensus here. Perhaps I am a chicken! I prefer to place 16 cms on steep ice, and 19cms if I have a good stance. I rarely place 13 cms. And yes, I use screamers. :)

Wally

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I'm with you Wally.. Although I only have two 19s. I use the 19s at belays or for v threads. I use half screamers half draws. The screamers for the couple screws placed after belays and anywhere that looks sketch. Quickdraws when things look good and/or when there's lots rope out.

My rack is 2 10s 4 13s 6 16s and 2 19s. I'm not sure I would place 13s for a belay but, hey whatever works for others. All my screws are BD Express.

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

16's for the northeast with a good selection of smaller stuff, I like BD Turbo Express but haven't used Petzl's

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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