Ice Cream Turned to Shit
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This climb is on the South Face of the Ship's Prow. Ice Cream ... starts right in the middle at the green spot. There is a little cave there. Head a little left up to the roof. Go right and then turn the roof straight to the top.
Start with an excellent sloping, finger crack that turns to vertical and ends at a roof. The crack is nice. The first belay is in the corner of the roof where the rock changes from light to dark. Move out left of the roof to start the second pitch, and there is the Ice Cream. Cleaning the first pitch was the shit. Turn the lip of the roof and romp the 5.8 to the top.
South Face of the Ship's Prow. Take climber's trail toward the Loft. This route is left of the prominent, descent route. Left of Tunnel of Love. Starts part way up by scrambling to a small grass spot with a small cave. You can slide into that cave and has a sleeping bag type feeling.
Full rack. Fingers to hands.
BETA PHOTO: The First belay is right in the corner of the roof...
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