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Ice Cream Parlor
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Ice Cream Parlor Crack 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan Mannix, Alison Sheets, 1986
Page Views: 5,426
Submitted By: Anthony Everhart on May 4, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Josh Janes leading 'Ice Cream Parlor Crack (5.11a)...

Description 

When you park and look at the Ice Cream Parlor this is the snazzy looking crack on the right side of the crag. Take the path that leads to the right and onto a large ledge. This crack is a really beefy flake in a very open book. The start is spicy then you break into 50ft of perfect yellow tcus, a bulge where the crack widens and flares then to the bolt anchor. Total desert style, stem on the smears, crank the fingers, fire the cams and get moving.Anthony Everhart


Protection 

Set of tcus with 6ish .75s and a #1 camalot, double bolt anchor. No nuts.



Photos of Ice Cream Parlor Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Janes about to finish on 'Ice Cream Parlor Crack (5.11a). Photo taken from the anchors by Tony Bubb, 2004.
Josh Janes about to finish on 'Ice Cream Parlor Cr...
Getting into the crack after the fun start
Getting into the crack after the fun start
Josh Janes just getting started on 'Ice Cream Parlor Crack (5.11a). Photo taken from the anchors by Tony Bubb, 2004.
Josh Janes just getting started on 'Ice Cream Parl...
working a lap on Ice Cream Parlor Crack
working a lap on Ice Cream Parlor Crack
getting into the initial tips lieback.
getting into the initial tips lieback.
Top roping about 2/3 way up. One problem we had was tipping to the left if you keep both feet smeared into the corner. The crux for me was near the top where the crack widens for a couple of moves. Photo by Kenny Parker.
Top roping about 2/3 way up. One problem we had wa...
Comments on Ice Cream Parlor Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By jason malczyk
From: General Delivery
May 6, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Not .75 it takes.5's

By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Nov 20, 2008

Gear List: (1) .3, (6-7) .4, and one 4 or 5 Camalot. Orange TCU's work very well also.

Totally kickass pitch and much better than Blue Gramma, its IC rival!

By MikeS
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2009

Skyeler's gear list is accurate. .75 is useless on this pitch. I protected the start with a #2 camalot in an undercling. Then a #4 (old size) below the finger crack. 2x .3, 4x .4, 2-3 .5's for the biz.

By acouncell
From: Estes Park, CO
May 30, 2010

yeah...but mike, you're a badass! :)

By Annie Naylor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

It's easy to climb the 5.9 to the left and TR this crack!

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
May 23, 2011

.75's definitely don't fit. I took 5 of them and realized i was screwed about half way up. I ended up running it out and .11- isn't easy climbing for me. Definitely bring alot of .4 and .5's for this one. It's an excellent climb.