Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lower Hawksbill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Conventional Warfare 
Diving Board, The 
Encore 
Fat Lady, The 
Ice Cream Direct 
Jeep's Chimney 
King of Kings 
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) 
Phantom of the Opera 
Trundle From Down Under 
Whip-or-will 

Ice Cream Direct 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Tim Fisher
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 1,253
Submitted By: Christopher Barlow on Sep 10, 2008
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment 

The Monk onsights Ice Cream Direct
  • Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Ice Cream Direct takes an inspiring line up the steep white rock in the middle of the cliff. It has multiple cruxes, tricky gear, and elegant climbing.

    Begin up a steep corner with three bolts. The climbing here is quite sequential and strenuous. Putting long slings on the bolts makes the climbing all the more heady, but you'll appreciate it when pulling the pumpy moves at the top of the headwall. Make a final long move to the ledge, step left, mantle, and sit down. Bring a newspaper and wait for your heartrate to return to normal.

    From the ledge, cast off into the steep, white headwall. The seams above are thin though open up enough for gear every once in awhile. Be prepared to do hard 5.11 climbing with small gear below your feet. Beware the ledge below you. Pull a bulge, stuff some more gear, and make long, pumpy moves to the top of the headwall. At the base of the final roof, step slightly left and swing through huge holds straight up to the belay bolts shared with Phantom of the Opera and the Fat Lady.


    Location 

    Ice Cream direct starts up a steep right-facing corner with three bolts about 20 feet right of the start of the Fat Lady and about fifty feet left of Jeep's Chimney.


    Protection 

    Three bolts at the bottom (long slings), then RPs and a double set of cams from small (#0 Metolius) to #.75 Camalot, and a #1 and #2 Camalot. I found a #2 LoweBall useful but not necessary. The guidebook, Selected Climbs of North Carolina, suggests that the climb requires extensive use of thin stoppers. In reality, Ice Cream Direct has mostly larger gear in pods and horizontals with two stretches in which one places an RP or two. You wouldn't want to skip the RPs though.

    Note: The hangers on the second and third bolts need tightening.



    Comments on Ice Cream Direct Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -