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Ice Climbing Training?
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By Cody G
From Spearfish, SD
May 3, 2013
Taking a friend out on his first ice climb!
So last year I started leading ice, and this coming year I am moving away from any form of ice, so I would like to retain some of the strength I got from this last year.

Does anyone have any good training regiments?

I already do dead hangs, some pull ups, and calve raises.

What do you guys have?

Thanks!

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By J. Fox
From Black Hawk, CO
May 3, 2013
Me too!
Do you have a woody? (that just sounds weird) I built one in my garage. I also drytool/climb the back of an extension ladder leading from my garage floor up into the attic. You could lean one against a house too.

Climbing the underside of a long ladder that's about a 45-degree overhang, up and down, up and down really works you. I'm talking about climbing it with your tools. Figure fours etc....it's all about the burn.

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By Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
May 3, 2013
P3 on Nutcracker.
Rock climbing translates better than anything.

Dont worry about sport specific training unless you are climbing 12a. Just build overall power, muscle mass, muscle endurance and strength until you get into the 11a Trad. THEN look at specific training IMO.

If you can climb 11a trad you will be a great ice climber.

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By Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
May 3, 2013
Stairway to Heaven
J Red wrote:
If you can climb 11a trad you will be a great ice climber.


There's a guy named Will Gadd who might disagree with you.

illgadd.com/ice-climbing-is-no...
illgadd.com/how-not-to-suck/

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By builttospill
May 4, 2013
To be fair, Martin, those posts are about ice climbing techniques and safety. Of course he's right--falling on ice is an awful idea, etc etc.

But that doesn't have anything to do with the proper training for ice climbing. Admittedly, I have nothing to add here. I've always just done lockoffs and dead hangs and tried to get out a lot.

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By Kyro
May 4, 2013
Get into dry tooling if you can. I found that after training that way once a week or so my ice skills went through the roof. Also great if u want to step up and get into mixed climbing. The ladder idea is great. And I also did pull-ups on my nomics using a pull-up bar. Helps develop all the muscles you need. Calf rises help as well for ice I think

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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
May 4, 2013
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.
m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=uZzg2U...

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By nicholas patterson
From Boulder, CO
May 4, 2013
alpine happiness.
hang from your tools for a long time.
then hang from one tool with both arms for a long time.
then hang from one tool with one arm for a long time. (switch and repeat, for a long time)
then hang from different positions on the tool for a long time.
then hang from your tools upside down for a long time.
then climb the underside of a ladder for a long time.
then do tool-ups for a long time.
then put some really thick gloves on, and repeat.
then put a heavy pack on, and repeat.
...do everything with your tools. cook with your tools. bathe with your tools. drive with your tools. go out and party with your tools. boulder with your tools (oops, too far)

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By Steve M
From MN
May 4, 2013
Soak your hands in ice water for 15 minutes then bash your knuckles with a hammer. Have a friend laugh at you while the feeling comes back.

If you have a good place to go and posthole that can be handy too.

Practice rigging raps while drinking whiskey.

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By RobC2
May 4, 2013
This..
Scout...
Scout...

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By FosterK
From Edmonton, AB
May 4, 2013
Will Gadd provides a good template for off-season, pre-season, and in-season ice and mixed climbing training, breaking it down by level of climbing.

At your level, off-season training would consist of:

1-hour of strength training/week: think pull-ups, dips, front levers)
2x2 hour climbing gym sessions/week
3+hours of aerobic training.

Preseason you exchange one gym climbing session for a full day on a mixed or early ice.

(Will Gadd in Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique, 2003)

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By Woodchuck ATC
May 4, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
where you moving to? we dry tool on our outdoor climbing farm silo here near Chicago, then freeze it up with ice in the winter to climb the ice. Check us out if in the area. Nice Ice group at Facebook..

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By Adam Burch
From San Dieger
Jun 3, 2013
you local?
I noticed a substantial increase in my endurance on ice from basic pullups and hanging on the tools. Made a couple notches in the top of the board that backs my hangboard, and near the bottom of it. You can do staggered and normal pullups, hang from one hand, etc. I normally train it with my less aggressive alpine tools (grip is more vertical), so when I'm hanging from my curved ice tools, it seems much less stressful. Core workouts are key as well ( hang from tools and do leg lifts), and I like to train triceps as well for tool-settin-POWAH.

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By Kevin Craig
Jun 3, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Kyro wrote:
Get into dry tooling if you can. I found that after training that way once a week or so my ice skills went through the roof. Also great if u want to step up and get into mixed climbing. The ladder idea is great. And I also did pull-ups on my nomics using a pull-up bar. Helps develop all the muscles you need. Calf rises help as well for ice I think


Gotta disagree on the first bit. Just doing mixed training will improve your hang-time but there's no substitute for swing training - as I discovered at some pain this last winter. Best is to invest in some Ice Holdz or at least swing a 3 lb sledge while hanging from the other tool. Dead hangs, pull-ups, calf raises, core work, etc. as already mentioned are all good as well.

Also check out the ice specific workouts at thealpinetrainingcenter.com and on their Facebook page.

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By beccs
Jun 3, 2013
I serched "plice" on Gadd's blog and came up with some good hits:

gravsports.blogspot.ca/search?...

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By Gunkiemike
Jun 5, 2013
Never heard the term 'plice'. Sounds like somebody's trying to create unnecessary new terminology for existing ideas, but I dunno.

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By trese
From Boulder and Innsbruck, Austria
Jun 5, 2013
Tyrol

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By JohnnyG
Nov 15, 2013
Anybody ever do the Mountain Athlete ice training program?

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 15, 2013
El Chorro
Josh Allred wrote:
Rock climbing translates better than anything. Dont worry about sport specific training unless you are climbing 12a. Just build overall power, muscle mass, muscle endurance and strength until you get into the 11a Trad. THEN look at specific training IMO. If you can climb 11a trad you will be a great ice climber.


:/

I climb 5.11 trad and I am a terrible ice climber.

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By Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
From Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Nov 23, 2013
Devils Lake
All of this is good, I also hold tools or light wieghts and flick them above my head as if I was setting a tool. I do this for time and it really starts to burn after a little while.

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By Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
From Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Nov 23, 2013
Devils Lake
And don't forget about the chains. Hang some chains from an overhanging wall and climb up and down them using the figure four. Another Will Gadd technique, this is becoming a common theme on this thread!

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By KeithS
Nov 23, 2013
Here's what I did today for ice training:

10 pull ups
10 bent over rows w/ a DeWalt air compressor
20 pushups
10 overhead sledge hammer chops (Like your swinging an ice tool, but with an 8 lb sledge, grabbing the handle about half way down)

Do 5 sets of that, then...

5 pull ups
5 bent over rows w/ same compressor
10 push ups
5 overhead sledge hammer chops
45 to 60 second wall sits

Do 5 sets of that...

In between sets, doing some arm circles and golf swings with the sledge hammer to bring the heart rate down before hitting the next set. Thats kinda my upper body day. A core and leg day would be incorporating some of the exercises above with planks, crunches, lunges with weight, wall sits and squats with a back packs. Personally, I use the mentality to train with weight so that when your out doing it for real, it feels a lot easier! Oh, and crucial is to cool down with a set of 12 oz curls

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By Brian Mulvihill
From Wilson, WY
Nov 26, 2013
Brian Mulvihill on the start of pitch 2
JohnnyG wrote:
Anybody ever do the Mountain Athlete ice training program?

Yes. Two years in a row now. Very very sport specific. I train at the MA gym which makes it easier than training remotely because of the intense time spent on your tools on different angles of walls. Also most people find it hard to commit to 6 weeks of 4 days a week training.

It's all about technique, then its all about grip strength/endurance.

get after it.

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By RobC2
Nov 26, 2013
This..
m.youtube.com/watch?v=cDaoXtXw...

Just do this...

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