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Ice climbing in Dynafits locked or unlocked?

Original Post
Matt Z · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 161

Wondering what those of you who climb in Dynafit boots do for the cuff when climbing. I've skied heaps in my One PX's and I like the unlocking cuff for range of motion when touring, but have always wondered what folks do for actually climbing in them. I know a lot of people climb in TLT's, PDG's, etc, which all have the same closure system and I'm wondering if you leave your cuff unlocked or lock it down when climbing.

Seems like leaving them unlocked would give you more flexibility in the ankle but at the cost of the bulk and inevitable spindrift in the boots. Do you still get enough flex with the ankle locked down though?

ryanb · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 85

Lots of people add a bit of cord with a knot or bit of tube that fits over the tooth of the locking mechanism keeping in from going in the hole so you can have a middle setting with the buckle closed/tight but the cuff unlocked.

I broke a tlt6 cuff buckle in the open position post hollling through crust and brush after i ran out of skiable snow. Now i make sure to keep my pants cuff over it to keep it from snagging on things.

Tim N · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 71

I have tlt6 mtns - I haven't climbed much real ice in them (yet) but give a +1 for the p-cord buckle block tactic. I use a very short loop of 5-6 mm cord tied w/an overhand. The loop is only 1 inch or so. When I want to block the buckle, I just loop it over that post on the buckle that locks the boot, and the knot prevents the post from going in the hole when the buckle is closed. I've mostly used this tactic for bootpacking and skating on flats.

It's a handy way to keep the cuff closed but allow some range of motion in the cuff. It also is handy as a toggle to open/close the buckle with gloves on.

Andrew Mayer · · Driggs, ID · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 131
ryanb wrote:Lots of people add a bit of cord with a knot or bit of tube that fits over the tooth of the locking mechanism keeping in from going in the hole so you can have a middle setting with the buckle closed/tight but the cuff unlocked.
This. my boots are still buried in summer storage but I can post a picture (if I remember) once I get them out soon. I've only climbed a pitch or 2 of ice in my TLT5P but remember my preference being in the following order:

1) homemade "middle setting" w/ buckle closed but cuff unlocked
2) cuff locked
3) cuff unlocked (all the rearward range of motion felt a little insecure to me)
Andrew Mayer · · Driggs, ID · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 131

I use a small piece of vinyl tubing to cover the "tooth" from locking the cuff into ski mode.

cuff block

Is small and dangles out the way the rest of the time.

cuff locked in ski mode

Jon Miller on the WS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 15

I've climbed with my TLT5 P a fair amount. I tend to use them unlocked and haven't had any issues.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

I've climbed in my F1's...prefer the cuff unlocked.

Left of Y Coulior in 2011...

Nice to be able to do a ski approach with a nice rig.

Kevin Mckenzie · · Washington, ME · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 21
Brian in SLC wrote:I've climbed in my F1's...prefer the cuff unlocked. Nice to be able to do a ski approach with a nice rig.
I've only climbed once in my F1's but I don't think you even can lock the cuff because it swings down into the same spot that the crampon lever swings up to. I'm definitely interested in finding the middle ground like some of these folks.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Kevin Nicastro wrote: I've only climbed once in my F1's but I don't think you even can lock the cuff because it swings down into the same spot that the crampon lever swings up to. I'm definitely interested in finding the middle ground like some of these folks.
Try some of the early Dart crampons, the ones with the odd Sidelock heel (no rear lever).
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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