Ice climbing and rotator cuff tears- the connection

Leash-less picks may help prevent shoulder injuries. I am a practicing chiropractor for nearly 30 years and climbing for about the same time. This winter I used leashes to climb steep ice thinking that my grip strength would no longer be the weak link. Well that is all too true. And so, when my feet slipped off unexpectedly, I fell unto my right pick which was well placed, and all my weight fell onto my right arm. Since I was wearing leashes, the weak link was now my shoulder. Had I been leash-less, my grip would have given way, I would have fallen onto the top rope that I was. The rope would have adsorbed my fall, instead it was my right shoulder that absorbed the shock. MRI confirmed a torn supraspinatus tendon and labrum tears in the right shoulder. I have spoken to several surgeons about my injury and how I believe it was caused. They all agree with my assessment. Surgery is set for this August in hopes to get back to climbing this coming winter. Randall Chalnick D.C.

Bummer. I literally feel your pain.

But I am proof that the same injury can happen even without leashes: my death grip on the tool acted like the leash in your situation!

On slightly overhanging rock/ice. Right foot on ice, right arm stretched out horizontally with a good stick in an icy crack. Left foot on rock, left hand trying to clip. Foot blew off the rock; I was so determined to not fall that I caught my weight completely with my right arm. I didn't fall (which was good), made the clip, and then got lowered down, blinded by pain when trying to move my arm.

Tears to the labrum and teres minor... 2+ years later, still recovering. Best wishes with your surgery and recovery.

Thanks, Had my surgery on 8-5-15. HAD A LARGE ROTATOR TEAR TO THE SUPRASPINATUS AND SOME LABRUM REPAIR. Some pain for first few days. Starting PT today. I did not want to live with this arm weakness and not be able to climb. I am hoping to get back on easy ice by the end of this upcoming season. Will keep you informed of my progress.

Dan Flynn wrote:Bummer. I literally feel your pain. But I am proof that the same injury can happen even without leashes: my death grip on the tool acted like the leash in your situation! On slightly overhanging rock/ice. Right foot on ice, right arm stretched out horizontally with a good stick in an icy crack. Left foot on rock, left hand trying to clip. Foot blew off the rock; I was so determined to not fall that I caught my weight completely with my right arm. I didn't fall (which was good), made the clip, and then got lowered down, blinded by pain when trying to move my arm. Tears to the labrum and teres minor... 2+ years later, still recovering. Best wishes with your surgery and recovery.

I am now 3 months post surgery and happy to say I am slowly getting stronger, but nowhere strong enough to climb right now. I am continuing to weight train and stretch to gain back full ROM. Hope to be climbing in February.

Having experienced this, have your thoughts on prevention through physical training changed at all?

Hi George- Practicing chiropractic for almost 30 years, I have treated a lot of injuries. I train nearly 4-5 days a week at the gym doing cardio and weight training specifically for ice climbing leading up to the ice season. However I must tell you, I did not see this injury coming nor knew about it until the drive home. Sometimes the body just can't take the "abuse' we put it thru. But I believe that you are infinity more exposed to injury if you do not train for your sport. February I should be back climbing ice - although not at the level I had been doing it. Yes, age does take its toll and I do find I can not do things the same way I did in my 20s and 30s or 40s. But as with everything we love and cherish, I will always greet new challenges whether physical or spiritual with a big grin on my face and in my heart that says life is wonderful! Indeed we need to greet each climbing challenge with that same enthusiasm and attitude that says, "this is exactly where I want to be and exactly what I want to be doing right now! Good luck Randy
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