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Delicate frictioning will get you past a bolt and a fixed pin. A #2 or #3 camalot will provide dubious protection in the alcove for the final moves to the top.
The middle route in the center of the slab.
bolt and fixed pin and a #2 or #3 camalot
Mar 31, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R
Move slightly right at the bolt and up to punch a mid sized cam in the back of a shallow triangular pocket/crack. Climb 15 feet and pull hard and technical slab moves at at least 5.10+. Finish the hard stuff more than 20 ft. directly above that 'ok' cam (maybe you're supposed to move back left?) and scamper 15 more feet of slab to the top. Had me pissing myself and I'm used to hard southern illinois slab.
Dec 17, 2010
I found the route to be about 10a when we did the second ascent. It seemed a bit heigth dependant. Lynne was having a little trouble on the FA the day before, but she's only around 5'2".
|By Chris Perkins|
From: Avon, Colorado
Mar 24, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R
It must have been a boring day for the first ascensionist. I found the crux to be above the cam in the horizontal. The moves past the bolt and pin seemed easy. One move wonder with consequences. I used a #3 camalot.