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Routes in Mt Stuart
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Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow |
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Direct North Ridge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Girth Pillar 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow |
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Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Easy Snow |
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Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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North Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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South Headwall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M4 |
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Stuart Range Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ulrich's Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow |
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| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade III |
| FA: | Bill & Gene Prater and Dave Mahre (1957) |
| Page Views: | 5,860 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Hebert on Mar 26, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
The route begins from the moraine just below the North Ridge. Traverse under the cliff at 6,600 feet and pick your route up the ice fall on either the extreme left or right side. In early season, the left side appears to be easier, with short ice sections around AI2. In late season, a 5.8 slab pitch on the right may prove easier.
From above the ice fall, follow the path of least resistance through the cirque, heading for the upper couloir. The bergschrund is typically passed on the climber's right side of the gully. Continue up the ~50-degree gully and take the right fork near the top. Surmount the cornice and you'll pull onto the South-facing ridge just below the false summit at about 8,600 feet.
Traverse under the false summit to the South and then tag the summit at 9,415 feet.
Retrace your steps back down from the summit, around the false summit, and descend the Sherpa Glacier, located just to the East of the exit of the Ice Cliff Glacier couloir, starting at about 8,200 feet.
From above the ice fall, follow the path of least resistance through the cirque, heading for the upper couloir. The bergschrund is typically passed on the climber's right side of the gully. Continue up the ~50-degree gully and take the right fork near the top. Surmount the cornice and you'll pull onto the South-facing ridge just below the false summit at about 8,600 feet.
Traverse under the false summit to the South and then tag the summit at 9,415 feet.
Retrace your steps back down from the summit, around the false summit, and descend the Sherpa Glacier, located just to the East of the exit of the Ice Cliff Glacier couloir, starting at about 8,200 feet.
Location
From the Stuart Lake Trailhead (approached via the ~4-mile road in early season), take the main trial to the first fork and stay right for Stuart Lake. Drop down to the creek when possible after about a quarter mile. The climbers' trail leaves the Stuart trail at 47.49742degN, 120.86218degW. If you don't find the climbers trail, simply pick your way across the snow towards Stuart, which should be in full view by this point.
Stay East of Mountaineers Ridge and eventually ascend either talus or moderately steep snow to the upper valley and campsites below the Sherpa glacier at 5,400 feet.
The Ice Cliff Glacier sits between the Sherpa Glacier and the classic North Ridge.
Stay East of Mountaineers Ridge and eventually ascend either talus or moderately steep snow to the upper valley and campsites below the Sherpa glacier at 5,400 feet.
The Ice Cliff Glacier sits between the Sherpa Glacier and the classic North Ridge.
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