Ice Boot Recommendation

Hello all!

I was looking for a a few words of advice on a new pair of ice climbing boots. This will be my first pair and due to my location no store in my area sells any. I have a few deals I can can obtain from a few companies that might sway my opinion.

The good deal options I have would be either Salewa, Mammut, or Scarpa. Would any of their lines be a go to pair versus paying full price(cheapest I can find on the internet) for a pair of La Sportiva's?

Main areas of climbing will be a bit in Colorado and North Carolina, with other varying places.

Thank you for any suggestions!

Scarpa's boots get similarly high reviews to La Sportivas boots. Although I've heard some concerns about durability of some of the Guide line. Mammut and Salewa probably make similarly high quality boots, but I haven't read much about either.

I assume if you're getting deals then there's no chance of ordering several types and picking the one that fits you best?

Patrick

Scarpa Mont Blancs thread closed

Whatever fits best x 1000.

I don't care if they are the Ferrari of boots...if they don't fit you will be hating life.

DannyUncanny wrote:Scarpa Mont Blancs thread closed

Only if you fat feet.
Or La Sportivas Napals EVO for skinny feet. Now thread closed.

I would recommend the Mammut Thermos only if you have really skinny feet. I am a woman with AA width feet, and they fit me great. For reference, even the women's La Sportiva Nepals are too wide, and they are considered by most to be a narrow boot. For more moderately narrow, look around for lightly used men's La Sportiva Nepal Evos. For wide feet, the Mont Blancs. The Salewas come in two widths, so watch out for that and choose accordingly. Any of the above boots will work well for ice climbing as long as they fit your feet.

Thank you for all the input. So I will definitely drive on with the fit priority in mind, my foot is normal in terms of width, to just slightly wide.

I've been using a pair of Phantom Guides for since Dec. 2010 and they are my go to boot...Comfortable enough for 16 mile days in the Tetons..I can't say enough in terms of durability, after 3 years there is NOTHING (yes, that deserves all capitals) wrong with the boots...no tears, zipper is fine, no blown eyelets, no rand peeling...and this is after a lot of climbing, honestly 100+ days. Trying a pair of Salewa Pro Gaiters this winter and hoping to have the same results so stay tuned...

If they fit your feet, Scarpa Phantom Guide. Look no further. Literally (not figuratively :) ) 80-90% of the ice climbers that I know (which include some of the best climbers you may never have heard of - and some you have) climb in Phantom Guides.

Phantom Guides, trust me, and everyone else recommending them, you will not be disappointed. They are incredibly light, hike great, climb ice and rock really well, and are plenty warm. I have taken them up a winter ascent of the diamond and also up hard single-pitch mixed lines. My experience is limited, but they seem to be the best all-around boot given the number of high-end athletes using them, even ones who are sponsored by a competing company. Of course, try them on and make sure they fit your feet. Keep in mind, as with ski boots, some slight boot fitting might be in order if you have an especially narrow heal.

I bought and sold 7 pairs of boots before trying on the Phantom Guides. And they were perfect. Another vote for the Guides, assuming they fit.

Go to a gear shop that knows what they're talking about like IME in North Conway or The Mountaineer in Keene Valley. Rock and Ice in New Paltz is a great shop too. Do NOT go to EMS. Try on as many pairs of boots as you can get your hands on. Try a couple different sizes. The boot fitter should know about heel lift and the right sizing for what you're doing.

Everyone's feet are different so no one boot is answer for everybody. Some people fit well into LaSportivas and some fit better into Scarpa boots. Some people like the stiffness of plastics and some like a boot with no ankle support like the Trango Evos.

Remember this one thing... A good boot fitter at a reputable shop will give you the best product.

Good luck shopping for boots! I hope you find what you're looking for

Ben Beckerich wrote: But I've never seen anyone say they can't wear Scarpa boots. Anyone else?

I don't fit into the Jorasses well. I tried a pair of 44.5 and they were way too small. I bought the 45s and liked them although the Scarpas were felt a little too big. I think after climbing in the Baturas for the last five days I'm selling my Scarpa Jorasses for$150.

I do like the design of the new Rebels and have climbed with a friend who likes his new Guides.

Ben Beckerich wrote:Phantom Guidess are great ice boots. Rigid sole, warm, but still full ankle articulation. Just want you want, if they fit your feet right. However.... for all the discussion of fit.. I've seen plenty of evidence that a lot of people don't fit this boot or that- I don't fit Sportiva boots, for instance. None of their climbing boots, anyway. But I've never seen anyone say they can't wear Scarpa boots. Anyone else?

Fwiw, I can't wear Scarpa boots. My super-skinny feet swim in them. Even the women's Mont Blancs. I can't cinch them down tight enough. Things might be different for you guys, though.

Scarpa Rebel ultra gtx

Thanks again for all the great suggestions!

Trouble is, everyone's foot is different, shapes sizes etc. I generally have very good luck with Sportiva boots, and I have a very wide foot... But most call the fit of the Batura and Nepal Evo's narrow. Go figure. As others have said, fit is the absolute key. Make sure your heel doesn't pull either, just like ski boots some climbing boots have wide heels some have narrow. Just about any of the boots available will get the job done, the competition in the market is tight. A big part of the decision should be full leather, or hybrid. Hybrids will generally be lighter, and be less stiff, they will also wear out faster. Full leathers tend to be warmer (not always) stiffer, and will generally last a very long time...