Ibex 

James Garrett published a guidebook titled “Ibex” that contains fantastic background on the area. Not only does this guide provide route information for Ibex and some other west desert climbs, it includes history, ethical considerations for the area, and a descriptive geology lesson that is unmatched by other guidebooks.

James Garrett IBEX guide book is really the best IBEX guide book out there. It's unfortunate that James will be in Africa in the near future and not here putting up great routes.

This place is a nightmare!!
Probably the single worst place to spend time on the entire planet!

Poisonous everything imaginable. . . even the rocks, which are chock-full of asbestos and other naturally occurring carcinogens.
Furthermore, this is one of two places where I was nearly abducted by aliens (the other was on our southern border).

The quartzarenite rock is pitiful and slimy - akin to climbing a stalagmite, but without the good friction.
The weather is truly a heartache.
The sheepherders are the orneriest bunch of foul cusses you could ever come across, and they travel the area in packs.
Its location is in the heart of Nowhereville, and their emergency services suck!
I've witnessed grown, educated men running naked across the hardpan, screaming and beating their chest, filled to the brim with "desert madness".

If you dare venture to this gem, I mean hell-hole, keep in mind the following:
James Garretts, IBEX guidebook: Read it and bring it - a superb guide with excellent ethics, history and side-notes (don't know James, but have used his guidebook, and it is a dandy!).
Stay on designated trails/roads; pack out all of your trash; do not drive across the "dead lakebed".
May the Gawds be with you.

Not as bad as some may make it sound that is if you love to get crazy.

Aliens, 60mph sand storms and FREAKS.

Hell is merely a perception my friends!

Don't miss the sand dune jumping behind the mining operation SW across the pan!

By the way if anyone finds my Icarus Kiteboarding hat. I seemed to have lost it in a Discovering Morals Training session. Damn aliens.....

Spring / Fall are the best times not just a bouldering location.

While hiking around looking for possible new lines I noticed a lot of new bolts and anchors, especially south of the syringe. I would like to contribute to the progress but don't want to step on any toes. Is there somebody who knows the current (Nov. 07) happenings? Looks like loads of unclimbed rock.

Love to do some of your routes D Durrant....just let me know where they are or posting them here would be cool....you are correct, lots of unclimbed rock, and 7 years after the guidebook hasn't even made an effect....though probably double the amount of routes in that area these days....so much for the secret area credo held by some?

I think the point was that rarely does "letting the cat out of the bag" really make much of a difference...at least it didn't at Ibex.

James bravo on the book! Accurate, really easy to use w/ interesting background info. this place is a gem if the winds don't take you at night. It also seemed a bit sand bagged, fyi, but worth it!

The sign seems to be missing at the turnoff from Hwy 6, but the road is pretty obvious (first left after the roadcut if you're coming from Delta) and there are cairns at both the Hwy 6 turnofff and at the turn to get over to the main area.

Ibex may have the most frictionless rock on the planet.

I got some help from the perfect send shoe for Ibex: Muira VS resoled with 5.10 stealth rubber.

Just getting back from my first (of many) trips to Ibex. Amazing place. I would highly recommend James Garrett's new West Desert Guidebook. Great information, easy to follow directions, and tons of newly published routes. And if you need more info, maybe you'll run into him out there.... we did. Thanks for all your great suggestions, James.

People coming to Ibex for the boulders should know that unless you are a SOLID v7 or stronger climber you will likely be disappointed with the established problems. That said, there are a number of extremely classic v7-11 problems on just the Red Moster, Thing 1, and Thing 2.

I couldn't disagree more. There are plenty of problems under v4 that are super fun. The cow bolder alone has at least 8 problems under v3. And if you aren't bouldering that hard, just go climb routes...

Better yet, its way too far to drive. And its always windy. And sandy. Super sandy! Too hot too.

Just got back from Ibex. While there, I found a long sling and 2 locking biners on a boulder next the the corral crag, near Ewe.F.O....I also found a NOLS water bottle on the hardpan, with a small racking biner attached to it and a cool cheetah sticker (c'mon guys, leave no trace).

However, my digital camera fell out of my pocket while i was rappelling quartermoon, I think it is on the grassy ledge up there in the middle of the climb. It's not that nice a camera, but it is waterproof and I don't really have a ton of money to replace it. I'd really like the pictures that are on it. It's a blue fuji. If you find it, text or call me at (eight 4 five) seven oh five-92 zero seven.

Maybe someone finds my camera? Maybe someone lost their slings?

-Eric

@tenesmus

Just because you enjoy the roped climbing doesn't mean you get to disagree with my comment about the chossy bouldering below v7. Even you describe the bouldering as choss in your photos. All I'm saying is, if you can't climb v7 then you should plan on rope climbing if you want to have a good time.

I've never touched a V7 and I've spent over a week bouldering at Ibex, having a blast the whole time. Maybe walk past the Red Monster?
Tenesmus' comment was tongue in cheek. Finding choss at Ibex isn't that easy. As far as disagreeing with comments, I guess I'm gonna need to apply for a permit...

Actually, I get to do what I wanna do.