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Kennel Wall
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Bad Dog Crack T 
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Dog Biscuit S 
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F* *king the Dog S 
Gigantopithicus S 
Give a Dog a Bone T 
I'm Talking to The Dog S 
Ian's Arete S 
Junkyard Dog S 
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Zacker Cracker  T 

Ian's Arete 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ian white 10/01
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: the route climbs the face and arete left of the gu...

Description 

Anyone know what this routes real name, grade and FA is?

This route climbs the moderate face climbing start of Bad Dog Crack (5.7) then climbs the arete and face to the right of that route...

A little squeezed in in my opinion seeing as though it shares holds with Bad Dog but it does contain some fun climbing on its independent sections...

Climb the face below the cracked corner and when it is possible break right on to the arete... Climb interesting and fun balancy moves up the arete till it gets too thin to continue at 5.10... Break back left out to the face and climb quartz edges up to the chains...


Location 

the bolt line right of the cracked corner of Bad Dog Crack (5.7)...


Protection 

About 7 bolts and a pin i think it was...



Comments on Ian's Arete Add Comment
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By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Apr 21, 2008

depending on the sequence and when you traverse right on the face the route feels a little bit easier than .10b to me. I'm not good at grades though but I would say 5.9+ or .10a.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 22, 2008

i changed it to 5.10a... i couldnt really decide... but that sounds fine... i wasnt crazy about the route so i didnt pay much attention to the grade... thanks for your vote...

By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Apr 23, 2008

Cool sounds good. Yeah this route is not as good as some of the others at the crag, though it's not bad for a warm up for me. I voted for 5.10a because it feels easier than dog star which is also much more fun.

By 000
From: Danvers, MA
Sep 27, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed it this past Saturday, couldn't find it in the book, so checked here. Could be a 10a. A little balancy, but we found it fun and probably more challenging than a 9. My 2 cents.

By S. Neoh
Jun 19, 2010

More fun (varied climbing) and longer than it looks from the ground.
9+ or 10a seems to be the right grade to me (easier than Dog Star).