I Turkey/ Resurrection 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Mark Sonnenfeld |
| Submitted By: | LeeAB on Sep 9, 2008 |
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Darren working the arete on Resurrection - Photo b...
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Description This has technical arete climbing, finishing with a reach out left to a finger crack which is followed to the top. It was bolted, chopped, and rebolted, hence the name.
-It does not receive the traffic it deserves.
-Originally it was graded 5.11d, but it's quite a bit harder than that.
Location This is the arete left of Whimsical Dreams, starting off of the Rasmussen's ledge.
Protection Bolts and finger-sized cams for the top, bolt anchor.
Darren low on the arete.
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I-Turkey butt shot.
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| Comments on I Turkey/ Resurrection |
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 6, 2009
rating: 5.11+
| This is one of the best routes at this grade I have done in a while. Awesome position and movement. Classic finish.
Some gear beta: an Alien will protect the opening moves getting to the first clip. There are 6 bolts on the arete and great clipping stances, the last one is kind of tricky clip. Along with some finger sized cams, a large hand-sized cam would also help for the finish. like a #2 or #3 Camalot. There is not a bolted anchor as suggested above, but rather rap off the Whimsy cable anchor. |
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jun 4, 2010
| I've done this a bunch over the years. A really super route, but I agree with an 11+/12a rating. Yellow Alien protects the bottom, bring some hand size for the top. |
By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
Mar 5, 2012
| Can anyone attest to the age of these bolts? A number of them are spinners and not very confidence inspiring.
Super cool line, would love to see some bomber bolts replacing the old ones. |
By lisastern513
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 18, 2013
| Easy to toprope without drag if you attach double length slings to the Whimsical anchor and drape them back over the route. |
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