This has technical arete climbing, finishing with a reach out left to a finger crack which is followed to the top. It was bolted, chopped, and rebolted, hence the name.
-It does not receive the traffic it deserves.
-Originally it was graded 5.11d, but it's quite a bit harder than that.
This is the arete left of Whimsical Dreams, starting off of the Rasmussen's ledge.
Bolts and finger-sized cams for the top, bolt anchor.
Darren low on the arete.
I-Turkey butt shot.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 6, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
This is one of the best routes at this grade I have done in a while. Awesome position and movement. Classic finish.
Some gear beta: an Alien will protect the opening moves getting to the first clip. There are 6 bolts on the arete and great clipping stances, the last one is kind of tricky clip. Along with some finger sized cams, a large hand-sized cam would also help for the finish. like a #2 or #3 Camalot. There is not a bolted anchor as suggested above, but rather rap off the Whimsy cable anchor.
From: Petaluma California
Jun 4, 2010
I've done this a bunch over the years. A really super route, but I agree with an 11+/12a rating. Yellow Alien protects the bottom, bring some hand size for the top.
Mar 5, 2012
Can anyone attest to the age of these bolts? A number of them are spinners and not very confidence inspiring.
Super cool line, would love to see some bomber bolts replacing the old ones.
|By L Stern|
From: Golden, CO
Feb 18, 2013
Easy to toprope without drag if you attach double length slings to the Whimsical anchor and drape them back over the route.