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I Stab Ourselves 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 616
Submitted By: Brian Aitken on Jun 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Hueco climb which I believe was put up by Matt Barley. Six bolts of overhangy sandstone to anchors.


Hueco climb on lower buttress about 7 minutes from the parking lot.


Sport climb. Six bolts to the anchor.

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By the professor
Jun 2, 2013

FA by Matt-from-Pennsylvania Barley and the professor, in 2002. The name is based on the events of the FA day. The professor brought an electric drill (forbidden in Zion) and had just finished putting in the final bolt when Mr. Ranger appeared! While the professor dangled on top-rope belayed by Megan Griffiths, Matt-from-Pennsylvania had a quiet talk with Mr. Ranger, falsely admitting complete liability for the drilling. Matt was thus the sole party to the resulting $100 fine. We both felt egregiously stupid for breaking the park rules and bringing this misfortune upon us. (The professor paid Matt $50 for his trouble.)
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jun 9, 2013

In rock this good, a hand drill takes just as much time!....Thanks for giving those of us who take the time to drill for real a bad name, and possibly jeopardizing access for everybody else...The actions of one or two CAN ruin it for everybody!. Just ask Dean Potter and anyone who has ever climbed or guided in arches.
By the professor
Jun 19, 2013

Dude. This was ELEVEN YEARS AGO. I admitted my guilt in this public forum, voluntarily paid my half of the fine, and in the hope of dissuading others from breaking Park rules, gave the route a name that celebrated our stupidity.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jun 26, 2013

Well done for that! The best rule for that is DONT GET CAUGHT!
By mbarley
Dec 17, 2013

Wow, the professor makes me sound like saint. :)

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