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Saddle Rocks - Skirt (North Face)
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I Smell a Rat 
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Unicorner, The 

I Smell a Rat 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Evans, Todd Gordon, Marge Floyd, Jim Angione & Radim Bedin, April 1991
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: C Miller on Apr 10, 2003
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Dave leads I Smell a Rat Spring 2011

Description 

This route climbs the featured vertical face that lies directly below the rap for Saddle Rocks. Climb up onto a flake then ascend the fun face above on postive holds ending on a large ledge. Not quite a sport climb but still adequately protected.


Protection 

6 bolts, bolted anchor/rap on the large ledge above



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By Richard Shore
Mar 26, 2012

Fun climbing, but the last (6th?) bolt way out left seems really forced, and you have to climb through some dubious rock to get there. One can easily "escape" straight up the face/blunt arete past the fifth(?) bolt, slightly runout going this way.

By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Nov 22, 2012

Somewhat dubious bolts, rusty and second or third bolt hanger is loose. I placed a couple stoppers behind a semi loose flake and alligator plating at the top of the arete before moving right to the rap anchor. Not bomber placements due to rock quality.

Somewhat friable holds, wondering if a foot hold broke off. There is a spot where something obviously used to be there but is no longer.