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Butler Corridor
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I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: (TR) Kelby Burnham, Tim Pinar, (Lead) Todd Gordon, Tim Pinar, Brett Pinar, Eric, Matthew
Page Views: 746
Submitted By: Randy on Apr 6, 2010
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Description 

This route is the left-hand of two face climbs on the south face of the Eiffel Tower. The Eiffel Tower is a large summit-pinnacle which lies on the left (west) side of the southern entrance to the Butler Corridor.

Climb a short crack/pillar/crack feature on the left side of the face. A fixed angle piton is found here -- though perfect cams fit here and seem much more secure.

Above the crack, face climb pretty much directly up past seven bolts and one more fixed pin. The climbing is sustained and excellent.

The only bummer is the funky anchor, which needs replacement.


Location 

The best approach for the Eiffel Tower is to hike to the base of the southern entrance to Butler Corridor. To reach the southern end of Butler Corridor, from the vicinity of the Red Obelisk, continue east for 25 yards. Now either:
(1) Turn left and take Prickly Pear Canyon north for about 20 yards, until you can cut right (east) over fairly level ground until you drop into a wash emanating from the Butler Corridor; or
(2) Continue east from the Red Obelisk in the main wash for another 100+ yards, and until you can circle around low rocks on your left and reach the southern entrance from the southeast.

Once below the southern entrance to the Butler Corridor, there is much vegetation and cacti. Stay to the far right of the gully, and scramble up boulders, staying on the right until you are just in the Butler Corridor. Once in the corridor, head left up to the base of the Eiffel Tower.


Protection 

You can do this route with draws only, but most climbers would place a 0.75 to 1.5 inch cam in the initial crack, bypassing the angle.



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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 16, 2010

Actually;..the FA was Kelby Burnham and Tim Pinar, who top roped the climb....but I personally did NOT do the climb that day, wanted to save and savor the route's first lead without having top roped it myself previously......

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 5, 2011

FA: (Lead) Todd Gordon, Tim Pinar, Brett Pinar, Eric, Matthew

By D. Evans
Jun 15, 2011

PUFL (Previously Unreported First Lead) (see above)