I, Robot 

This route can also be led with a standard rack, up to a 3.5 camalot. The crack that I went up, moving Left to Right diagonally as you look up, was flaring but it did take two cams. Leading this is certainly an option before it gets covered in top ropes, although the flaring cracks made the pro less than ideal.

Not just for top roping!

If you lead this, make sure to have plenty of small gear for the thin fingers crack up above. Small nuts and Aliens work well. Some good finger locks in the crack, but the feet are mostly smears at the crux (a small bulge) - harder than it looks from below, but 5.7 feels about right.

Cool crux, its lots of fun if you only use the finger crack and don't wimp out and go left. There is a fixed stopper at the crux as of 3/18/06. I would say only using the finger crack by itself could go at 5.8.

I just did this as my first 5.7 lead. I found it relatively straight-forward to sew up the finger-crack on the upper part of the pitch with finger-sized cams (e.g., blue to yellow Aliens). If you have small-to-medium sized hands, you can get in some great finger locks that will get you through the smeary crux with limited fretting.

Sweet finger locks at the top. I would have given 3 stars if it were longer....

Taken direct, this has a well-protected UK 5a move in the top crack, so I don't understand the 5.7 rating.

I gave this three stars because the climbing is really great with a lot of fun moves, especially for such a moderate grade.

I loved this little route, reminded me of the City of Rocks. Anyone know where I can find a similar but longer version around here?