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 ADVANCED
(8) Golden Valley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Around the Corner S 
Aus der Traum T,S 
Black & Tan T 
Black Faced Man S 
Black Gold T 
Black Magic Woman T 
Climax T,S 
Cold Sushi T 
Conditional Reality S 
Convenient S 
Dragon's Back S 
Dragon's Nose S 
Dripping Dragon S 
Gold Club T 
Gold Member T 
Golden Shower T 
Goldline T 
I Love Taiwan T 
Inconvenient S 
Kevlar Vest T 
Let's Do The Trad T 
Never S 
Nugget T 
Pearl Necklace T 
Snake Alley S 
String Bikini T 
Tanz en Den Mai S 
Teamwork T,S 
Tofu Tower T 
Very Inconvenient S 
Wet and Hairy S 
White-Faced Man S 
Yosemite Crack T 

I Love Taiwan 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Mar 18, 2013

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leading

Description 

Start up easy ground to a big horizontal that cuts through the whole wall. Continue up blocky steps to the vertical wall divided by a fractured crack system with some vegetation. Send this crack through a series of sustained moves to another horizontal. Climb easy blocks to a ledge. From here, step to the left side and continue up wide crack... OR get up into the thin dihedral and punch out the roof... OR step right at the roof, up and out the other side, and then back left along a horizontal. All routes end at the top of a pillar. Belay up second from trad anchor, then belay the traverse to the descent anchors 30 feet up and left.

Location 

Start in the middle of the Black Wall. Look up and find the outline of Taiwan etched by cracks in the black-orange stone halfway up. This route goes up the right side of the Taiwan.

Protection 

Gear to 2"


Photos of I Love Taiwan Slideshow Add Photo
Sophie cleaning the last moves of the route
Sophie cleaning the last moves of the route
topo
BETA PHOTO: topo
leading
leading

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By Jim Althans
May 8, 2014

top anchor installed in June 2013!