I Love L.A.
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Jesse Groves, of Carpenteria, exits the strenuous ...
I Love L.A. follows a line of bolts immediately left of Ruthless Poodles and tackles the steepest line on the wall.
Super fun and reasonably-protected 5.9 face climbing past two bolts gains an obvious ledge. From here, the difficulties begin. Reach high, stem wide and pull yourself off of the ledge. Follow insecure holds to a DESPERATE clip at the roof. The clip itself is the clear crux of the route--blow this clip and you may deck on the aforementioned ledge.
Strenuous and balancy moves on positive holds (5.10a) lead up and right out of the roof and onto the upper headwall. If on lead, keep your cool because a slight runout on 5.8 terrain leads to the next bolt.
Finally, traverse either right or left to your choice of fixed anchors (also 5.8).
To many, this route feels harder than Ruthless Poodles.
Bolts. [ed. note: 3 protection bolts were replaced 9/99 by Reese Martin]
An untimely fall after leaving the massive ledge at mid-height could put you back on the ledge. It is possible to carry small gear (up to 3/4") to protect this spot.
As mentioned, the clip at the roof is desperate. A short, but exposed runout awaits you above the roof.
All in all, a very serious lead.
Mark Collar on Ruthless Poodles
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 1, 2006
I have actually peeled off of the moves above the roof (past the crux and before the next clip). The ensuing fall is among the longest that I have ever taken and among the cleanest--it's all air.
Interestingly, because of the placement of the protection bolt (on a near-horizontal ledge) and the swinging nature of the fall, the gate on the carabiner clipped to the hanger was pushed open and stayed open. Consider using a locking carabiner on the hanger side of your quickdraw.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Sep 25, 2013
Awesome climb, turning the roof and cruising the headwall feels heroic.