Boulder up to (or stick clip) the first bolt. Make some thoughtful moves that veer towards the right then, head straight up the bolt line to a blunt left facing flake. Work the flake to a good rest above. Milk it!! From here, turn the roof using faceholds and the arete to find another rest. . . . It's not over yet!! Balance your way up the tricky slab and finish off with a good reach a bit above the last bolt. Work your way right beneath the roof to access the anchors above the lip.
The "Shelf Road Rock" guidebook has an awesome description of this route. Something to the effect of "a seemingly endless supply of fresh cruxes as this brainteaser keeps you thinking", which I think is right on!!
This route goes up the light-colored face of a small "buttress" to the right of "I Claudius" and "La Cholla".
10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. (Correct me if I'm wrong please but I'm positive that there aren't more than this.)
Wow, what a climb. It is pockets, then a roof, and finishes on body tension moves. What more can you want?
By kjdetlor From: Colorado Springs, CO Mar 10, 2008
I made the mistake of climbing this on an empty stomach and almost puked while figuring out the moves on this route. Sweet route, everything from slab climbing to knee bars, very enjoyable nonetheless.
Great technical pocket pulling down low to a good rest before the upper slab crux sets in. It gets it's name from the upper slab section. If you lean just a little too far back while grabbing your rope to clip the bolts above the roof you'll come off. This climb was fun to watch my friend who's 5'0" try to hug the upper section.
Nice line. The only problem with it to me was the fact that before climbing over the roof and onto the final technical section you could have a full sitting rest on the arete/corner. However, if the rest is used or not you still can't escape doing any of the crux moves and I feel the grad stands, but only get 3 stars from me. All in all, it's a must do line.