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I hate my gym!
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By Avi Katz
Feb 1, 2014

if you think the Gunks are overrated your doing it wrong. NYC is not a climbing destination! If you want to climb year round move west and south


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By Marek Sapkovski
Feb 1, 2014

Avi Katz wrote:
if you think the Gunks are overrated your doing it wrong.

I appreciate the historical significance of the Gunks and the sheer volume of rock. Don't love the Gunks-style trad climbing - both nature of the movement and sparse protection. Most of the times I go out there I end up bouldering, you get better "return on time" this way. Instead of climbing a route that would be a 5.3 to V5 roof boulder problem to another stretch of 5.5, you can do a few V5s in the same stretch of time.

Avi Katz wrote:
NYC is not a climbing destination! If you want to climb year round move west and south

I know. My reason to move to the US was money and, unfortunately, the job is in NYC. Certainly not gonna retire here :)


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By doligo
Feb 1, 2014
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

There are a lot of strong climbers who train at Chelsea Piers. Just be thankful that it's convenient and you can afford it, and use it as a training tool. Just run laps on the overhanging lead walls. So many people would kill for those! Just get a hangboard to supplement finger/crimp strength. Like you said, long free routes - CP is godsent for those.


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By shotwell
Feb 1, 2014

Will S wrote:
Sounds like a business opportunity for you. I'm kind of gobsmacked at the prices you folks are willing to pay. I don't exactly live in a cheap area of the country being in the endless sprawl of the greater L.A. area. The last ~6 years, my gym membership has cost $300...per YEAR. Granted, I renew during their annual "birthday" sale every year for a nice price break, but even full price is maybe a little over 400. Monthly with no contract, full price is about $50/mo. Then again, we have shitloads of industrial warehouse type space in the IE and a competing gym about 10 minutes away.


The pricing where you climb is largely driven by size and the local competition. To be fair, the route setting also sucks and the head setter is kind of a jerk!


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By drmartindell
From Homer, Ak
Feb 1, 2014

Will S wrote:
Sounds like a business opportunity for you....


This dude has his place of residence listed as Joshua Tree. Who lives in Joshua Tree and joins a gym? Buy the annual park pass and call it good...


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Feb 1, 2014

Marek Sapkovski wrote:
Chelsea Piers Sport Center It's a fitness club with a climbing wall - a reasonably big climbing section, to be fair.

Ha, I remember that gym. I was the first gym I ever climbed in, 11 years ago. God damn, they charge $50 for a day pass. That is almost tipple the rate of the best gyms in the USA. Anyway, I seem to recall everyone who lived in Chelsea Piers drove Audi A8s, so I guess they can afford to pay and thus, they charge $50 for a day pass.


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By JCM
From Golden, CO
Feb 1, 2014

drmartindell wrote:
This dude has his place of residence listed as Joshua Tree. Who lives in Joshua Tree and joins a gym?


Someone who works a 9-5, yet wants to continue to get stronger and improve as a climber. Gyms have an important role to play, no matter how good your local climbing options.


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By Rob Davis
From Brooklyn, NY
Feb 2, 2014

Marek Sapkovski wrote:
I appreciate the historical significance of the Gunks and the sheer volume of rock. Don't love the Gunks-style trad climbing - both nature of the movement and sparse protection. Most of the times I go out there I end up bouldering, you get better "return on time" this way. Instead of climbing a route that would be a 5.3 to V5 roof boulder problem to another stretch of 5.5, you can do a few V5s in the same stretch of time. I know. My reason to move to the US was money and, unfortunately, the job is in NYC. Certainly not gonna retire here :)



what routes are you climbing with sparse protection? This was my first season at the gunks and I climbed something like 150 pitches and probably only found myself run-out a handful of times. Pro at the gunks is ace


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Feb 2, 2014
modern man

All gyms suck to a point, if the people working there are friendly and the routes are well set and maintained it makes them less sucky. CP looks like a pretty swanky place, I know people that pay that much just for a pool membership.

What Dolgio said, it seems you could be doing much worse.

Do they use the same colored holds? I'd hope so for that price.


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By Nielsonru
Feb 2, 2014

Do you run into spinners very often? I love my gym except for the fact that I feel I need to carry an Allen wrench with me on every climb because the holds are always loose.


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By ottice webb
From Stanton KY
Feb 2, 2014

Well i never have seen a gym but feel best knowing i grew up in the gorge,appreciate it so much


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Feb 2, 2014
Gunking

Marek Sapkovski wrote:
Don't love the Gunks-style trad climbing - both nature of the movement and sparse protection. Most of the times I go out there I end up bouldering, you get better "return on time" this way. Instead of climbing a route that would be a 5.3 to V5 roof boulder problem to another stretch of 5.5, you can do a few V5s in the same stretch of time.


Lol. Protection at the gunks is better than anywhere else I have climbed. What climb is 5.3 to a v5 crux?


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Feb 2, 2014

JohnWesely wrote:
Lol. Protection at the gunks is better than anywhere else I have climbed. What climb is 5.3 to a v5 crux?



John, what's that route in your profile pic? Looks cool! [Edit: I'll try to get on it if Marek won't... :)]


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By RNclimber
From Riverside, Ca
Feb 2, 2014
Seconds before onsighting Gun Smoke V3, Joshua Tree bouldering

JohnWesely wrote:
Lol. Protection at the gunks is better than anywhere else I have climbed. What climb is 5.3 to a v5 crux?


I'm guessing you've never climbed at Indian Creek. Plug, clip, climb...I've never worried about a placement or fiddled with gear there, or worried about it ever walking


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By J Sundstrom
From Seattle, WA
Feb 2, 2014
Story of my life.

Marek Sapkovski: Sorry, not familiar with this abbreviation - is that an alcoholic beverage?

I take it you drink Heineken?


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By Marek Sapkovski
Feb 2, 2014

Rob Davis wrote:
what routes are you climbing with sparse protection? This was my first season at the gunks and I climbed something like 150 pitches and probably only found myself run-out a handful of times. Pro at the gunks is ace

Take any 5.12 and most of them will be scary (PG or beyond). The only 5.12s that the Williams guide lists as G are Scary Area, Kansas City and Happiness is a 110o Wall.

JohnWesely wrote:
Lol. Protection at the gunks is better than anywhere else I have climbed.

You joking, right?

JohnWesely wrote:
What climb is 5.3 to a v5 crux?

To name a couple - Kansas City (the Nears) and Stupid Crack (on the Mental Block in the Trapps). There are a couple sustained routes at the Gunks, but most harder routes are essentially boulder problems.


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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Feb 2, 2014
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage

J Sundstrom wrote:
Marek Sapkovski: Sorry, not familiar with this abbreviation - is that an alcoholic beverage? I take it you drink Heineken?


Zywiec is my guess. Who is closer?


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By Marek Sapkovski
Feb 2, 2014

J Sundstrom wrote:
I take it you drink Heineken?

I don't drink much, especially beer. When I do, these days I drink American small-brewery stuff. It's Belgian quality at American prices, the best of both worlds. It took me a few months in the US to figure it out


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By Marek Sapkovski
Feb 2, 2014

Alicia Sokolowski wrote:
Zywiec is my guess. Who is closer?

Kronenbourg would be the nation-based guess. Parents and friends call me Marek, but my legal first name is Jean-Marc.


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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Feb 2, 2014
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage

Marek Sapkovski wrote:
Kronenbourg would be the nation-based guess. Parents and friends call me Marek, but my legal first name is Jean-Marc.


Well that certainly tricked me. No offense intended. I love Zywiec, personally, and I am not even really Polish.


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By S. Neoh
Feb 2, 2014

The only time I ever visited CP was in '96. Something like $25 or $27 for a day pass even back then. I am wondering if the big roofy cave/wall is still the same. Vadim was training on it when we were there. Routes were forgettable but not the indoor beach volleyball courts! Are they still there?
Boston, a city much smaller than NYC, now has several good gyms.


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By rogerbenton
Feb 2, 2014
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

you are complaining a lot, as opposed to asking for tips.

the other way is better.

if you want more sustained routes in the 12 range go discover lost city.


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Feb 4, 2014
Gunking

Optimistic wrote:
John, what's that route in your profile pic? Looks cool! [Edit: I'll try to get on it if Marek won't... :)]


Not sure. Something at Bonticu, very easy.


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Feb 4, 2014
Gunking

Marek Sapkovski wrote:
Take any 5.12 and most of them will be scary (PG or beyond). The only 5.12s that the Williams guide lists as G are Scary Area, Kansas City and Happiness is a 110o Wall


Last time I checked, PG routes are well protected. Also, there are not a lot of hard routes period at the Gunks. Saying there is a lack of hard routes at the Gunks would be a much better criticism.


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By J Q
Feb 4, 2014
Me again!

We all do, get over it and be happy you have one.


Could be worse.



You could love your gym and never leave, making you a douche.


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