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I hate my gym!
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By Marek Sapkovski
Feb 1, 2014

One would imagine that in a city of 8 million people there would be a choice of good climbing gyms. Nope, there are only two gyms with proper lead walls.

Normally, I would not care; my preference is to train outside; Between bouldering after work and climbing/bouldering on the weekends, I can usually log over 150 days a year on real rock.

This winter, however, is unusually cold so I am forced to train/climb mostly indoors. I bit the bullet and joined a climbing gym reasonably close to my office. Two hundred dollars a month (well, it has all the non-climbing fixings)! The route setting sucks (possibly because of the wall specifics) and the choice of wall angles is very small. Every route is a jug haul, even the smaller, fingery holds are in-cut "little jugs". The main wall is essentially a cave (large roof). More jugs. There are no vertical walls with flat or sloped crimpers and bad feet, the sort of stuff that you probably want to train on for long free routes. There is no 45 degree wall. There are almost no slopers. Boulder problems are contrived and boring at the same time. The walls have fairly few T-nuts so there are few holds so creating my own routes/traverses using in-situ holds is impossible. In short, it sucks.

PS. yes, that was a rant and I am hoping for sympathy :)


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By RyanO
From sunshine
Feb 1, 2014

Climbing gym

Wanna kick it at my parents' house and drink PBRs instead?


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By Jon H
From Boulder
Feb 1, 2014
At the matching crux

Chelsea Piers is lame. In other news, the sky is blue and the Pope is still Catholic.


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By Marek Sapkovski
Feb 1, 2014

RyanO wrote:
drink PBRs instead?

Sorry, not familiar with this abbreviation - is that an alcoholic beverage?

Jon H wrote:
Chelsea Piers is lame. In other news, the sky is blue and the Pope is still Catholic.

Somebody could have warned me before. Even the little bouldering place on the Upper East Side holds more promise, but God is it crowded.


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Feb 1, 2014

Marek Sapkovski wrote:
One would imagine that in a city of 8 million people there would be a choice of good climbing gyms. Nope, there are only two gyms with proper lead walls. Normally, I would not care; my preference is to train outside; Between bouldering after work and climbing/bouldering on the weekends, I can usually log over 150 days a year on real rock. This winter, however, is unusually cold so I am forced to train/climb mostly indoors. I bit the bullet and joined a climbing gym reasonably close to my office. Two hundred dollars a month (well, it has all the non-climbing fixings)! The route setting sucks (possibly because of the wall specifics) and the choice of wall angles is very small. Every route is a jug haul, even the smaller, fingery holds are in-cut "little jugs". The main wall is essentially a cave (large roof). More jugs. There are no vertical walls with flat or sloped crimpers and bad feet, the sort of stuff that you probably want to train on for long free routes. There is no 45 degree wall. There are almost no slopers. Boulder problems are contrived and boring at the same time. The walls have fairly few T-nuts so there are few holds so creating my own routes/traverses using in-situ holds is impossible. In short, it sucks. PS. yes, that was a rant and I am hoping for sympathy :)


WTF, you pay $200 a month to climb in a shitty gym? If I recall right, all of the top 10 gyms in the USA are under $100 a month. Is this a climbing gym with fitness gear, or a fitness gym with a climbing section?

Also, if you are going to talk crap about your gym, you should out them too. Post the URL to their website so we can see too.


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By Marek Sapkovski
Feb 1, 2014

20 kN wrote:
Is this a climbing gym with fitness gear, or a fitness gym with a climbing section? Also, if you are going to talk crap about your gym, you should out them too. Post the URL to their website so we can see too.

Chelsea Piers Sport Center
It's a fitness club with a climbing wall - a reasonably big climbing section, to be fair.


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By skinny legs and all
From Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 1, 2014
Right Pile, Big Cottonwood Canyon, summer 2008.

I understand that it is not a bouldering oriented gym and the walls are relatively old, but doesn't the internationally ranked competition and 5.14 climber Vadim Vinokur train there?


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By Rob Davis
From Brooklyn, NY
Feb 1, 2014

Marek Sapkovski wrote:
One would imagine that in a city of 8 million people there would be a choice of good climbing gyms. Nope, there are only two gyms with proper lead walls. Normally, I would not care; my preference is to train outside; Between bouldering after work and climbing/bouldering on the weekends, I can usually log over 150 days a year on real rock. This winter, however, is unusually cold so I am forced to train/climb mostly indoors. I bit the bullet and joined a climbing gym reasonably close to my office. Two hundred dollars a month (well, it has all the non-climbing fixings)! The route setting sucks (possibly because of the wall specifics) and the choice of wall angles is very small. Every route is a jug haul, even the smaller, fingery holds are in-cut "little jugs". The main wall is essentially a cave (large roof). More jugs. There are no vertical walls with flat or sloped crimpers and bad feet, the sort of stuff that you probably want to train on for long free routes. There is no 45 degree wall. There are almost no slopers. Boulder problems are contrived and boring at the same time. The walls have fairly few T-nuts so there are few holds so creating my own routes/traverses using in-situ holds is impossible. In short, it sucks. PS. yes, that was a rant and I am hoping for sympathy :)


also in nyc, same feeling. I live in brooklyn, but because of the G train being what it is, it's actually faster for me to go to that new upper east side bouldering gym, and honestly, its' really really good. It's super small (like, the size of a storefront), but feels much more welcoming, the people that work there are friendly, and the setting is superb. It's a bouldering gym, which is the opposite of what I"m looking for, but compared to paying out the ass for chelsea piers, or getting stuck in the crowds and dangerous kids groups at bkb, I'll take it for a few months until the long island city gym either opens, or declares bankruptcy.


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By RockinOut
From NY, NY
Feb 1, 2014
Gear

I wouldn't call Chelsea Piers a climbing gym. Its more of a fitness center that happens to have a climbing wall. Far cry from a dedicated gym like BKB or TRC. You said you like to train outside….there's aways the bouldering in Central Park…..


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 1, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Marek Sapkovski wrote:
Sorry, not familiar with this abbreviation - is that an alcoholic beverage? Somebody could have warned me before. Even the little bouldering place on the Upper East Side holds more promise, but God is it crowded.


!!!What country are you from? America's symbol of cheap swill and laid back drinking of brew is the PBR...Pabst Blue Ribbon, beer! Made famous in great movie Blue Velvet...and many other places seen on screen as a casual everday working mans beverage of choice.


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By Zappatista
Feb 1, 2014
Book me, officer.

Union made, tastes like classy pee. It's one of my standard throw-backs when union boosters want to give me shit about driving a rice rocket. If they drink corona and drive an F-150, both are essentially Mexican made products and not exactly bolstering our thriving market. If you want to go all union, all the time, you gotta suck it up and go Pabst and Toyota Tacoma (union built on US soil, unlike most GM rides nowadays).

I've been pretty spoiled by the quality at gyms I've been to. The management at our west side spot in Vegas leaves a lot to be desired in terms of personality and commitment to safety, but at least the structure is pretty rad. My east coast gym was five star.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Feb 1, 2014
...

You call yourself a climber and DON'T know what PBR stands for?

"drink PBRs instead?

Sorry, not familiar with this abbreviation - is that an alcoholic beverage?"



You MUST be a GYM climber!

;-)


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By Brian Moore 1
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Feb 1, 2014

After watching the video on their page you should be inspired to climb, do yoga, run hurdles, swim, box, wrestle, and get ripped cleaning, snatching, and throwing down some significant weight...have you not watched this inspiring video?


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 1, 2014

Sounds like a business opportunity for you.

I'm kind of gobsmacked at the prices you folks are willing to pay. I don't exactly live in a cheap area of the country being in the endless sprawl of the greater L.A. area.

The last ~6 years, my gym membership has cost $300...per YEAR. Granted, I renew during their annual "birthday" sale every year for a nice price break, but even full price is maybe a little over 400. Monthly with no contract, full price is about $50/mo. Then again, we have shitloads of industrial warehouse type space in the IE and a competing gym about 10 minutes away.


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By Rob Davis
From Brooklyn, NY
Feb 1, 2014

Will S wrote:
Sounds like a business opportunity for you. I'm kind of gobsmacked at the prices you folks are willing to pay. I don't exactly live in a cheap area of the country being in the endless sprawl of the greater L.A. area. The last ~6 years, my gym membership has cost $300...per YEAR. Granted, I renew during their annual "birthday" sale every year for a nice price break, but even full price is maybe a little over 400. Monthly with no contract, full price is about $50/mo. Then again, we have shitloads of industrial warehouse type space in the IE and a competing gym about 10 minutes away.


there are less expensive gyms, the original poster just chose the single most expensive gym in the new york city area that has climbing. That said, the new gym on the upper east side that's only bouldering, and is very very small (though quite a good gym for the size), is $88 for students! Brooklyn Boulders, the only climbing-dedicated gym in the NYC area with proper lead climbing is $800 for students IF you prepay, and doesn't do an educator discount (I'm a teacher, not a student, but most places will do student discounts for teachers). That said, I recall when I bought my yearly pass, someone slyly let me have the cheaper price, but it didn't seem like it was meant to be done.

It's fucking new york. Everything is expensive, except gunks annual passes which are only like, 80 bucks or whatever. That said, as someone without a car, it costs me close to $40 to get to new paltz every time, and then I have to hitch hike to cliffs.


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By Rob Davis
From Brooklyn, NY
Feb 1, 2014

Will S wrote:
Sounds like a business opportunity for you.


I ignored this part of your post! for an idea of how easy it is to start a climbing gym with lead climbing in nyc, just have a look at the Cliffs in Long Island City and all of their wonderful drama regarding trying to open, bribery, DOB threats, and the wonderful moment when they wouldn't let them open because the exercise equipment wasn't positioned in the same way in their initial plans!
if you check their facebook page, go to the posts starting october 27, 2013, and realize that they've been closed by the department of business since that day, after only being open for 20 days!
https://www.facebook.com/TheCliffsAtLongIslandCity


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By Jon Frisby
From New York, NY
Feb 1, 2014

Yeah dude living here sucks as a climber.


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By Rob Davis
From Brooklyn, NY
Feb 1, 2014

Jon Frisby wrote:
Yeah dude living here sucks as a climber.


well, other than loving the gunks, I agree.


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By rogerbenton
Feb 1, 2014
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

i got a discount at BKB for being a teacher/instructor, you might want to look into that again.
When/if the cliffs re-open it's a great gym. BKB is too, just a crowd issue.


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Feb 1, 2014

Why not just approach Chelsea Piers about setting some routes for them? Be the change you want to see in the world, and all that? Maybe they'd give you a discount, too!


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By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 1, 2014
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard

Everyone I've met who has been to The Cliffs in LIC says it is really good. It has been open and closed because of problems with a beyond-idiotic DOB. Eventually, this agency of imbeciles is going to run out of dumb reasons to deny permits and the The Cliffs will stay open---hopefully this will be real soon.

Once they're open for good, there will indeed be an excellent---world-class---climbing gym in NYC.


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By RNclimber
From Riverside, Ca
Feb 1, 2014
Seconds before onsighting Gun Smoke V3, Joshua Tree bouldering

damn that's a lot of money. I pay $25/month for mine

www.climbth.com/


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By wivanoff
Feb 1, 2014
High Exposure

RNclimber wrote:
damn that's a lot of money. I pay $25/month for mine www.climbth.com/


Nice! $125 for 3 months for me. Prime Clime, Wallingford CT


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Feb 1, 2014
tanuki

Climbing in NYC makes me think of Ivan. Rock on you crazy chipper!


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By Marek Sapkovski
Feb 1, 2014

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
!!!What country are you from? America's symbol of cheap swill and laid back drinking of brew is the PBR...Pabst Blue Ribbon, beer!

Got it. In my country people drink mostly wine and you can get a liter for 2-3 euros :)

rgold wrote:
Once they're open for good, there will indeed be an excellent---world-class---climbing gym in NYC.

Agreed. I just hope DOB will run out of excuses before Cliffs go under financially :(

Jon Frisby wrote:
Yeah dude living here sucks as a climber.

Living here sucks. As a climber it sucks more. Central Park bouldering is barely worth a mention. Gunks are nice, but definitely overrated.


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By Avi Katz
Feb 1, 2014

if you think the Gunks are overrated your doing it wrong. NYC is not a climbing destination! If you want to climb year round move west and south


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