Start by climbing a nice finger crack with small edges on either side for the first 20'. Gain the large ledge and choose to either climb the finger/hand crack on the left or the offwidth on the right, or combine both. Probably better to place gear in the hand crack. The last 20-30' is climbing up loose, gravely, broken ledges. The majority of this climb is pretty loose. Rap in with on 50 or 60 meter rope.
100' feet north of the North Tower in the Northern Ramparts. Just north of Water Babies. Look for open gravel area at the top. #79 in the Falcon guide.
Cams Black Diamond #.3-#4. I think I placed doubles of #1 and #2. Anchor setup is long slings around two trees.
|Comments on I Could've Been a Contender
|By Sam Daley|
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
May 20, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Great movement through the middle third of the climb. When leading, just be careful of the lose blocks in the final third of this climb.