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I climbed this one!

Original Post
jumping fish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 100
mcarizona · · Flag · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 180

Good work. What are the details?
Steve

jumping fish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 100

HI STEVE

mountain's face

approch

pitch 1-2-3-4

pitch 1 and 2 and 3 and 4

haul

camp 2

somewhers up there

getting closer to the top

hauling a lot of times

final pitch best pitch flat roof bring your gear smaller than 1 inch

almost there

camp 3
this is the top of the route
to get down you must go over a short slab and down another slab
and a series of rappels towards the south through a corridor leads you almost there to the ground.

Pitch 1 easy traverse to old tree
Pitch 2 bolt ladder with a short section of aid
pitch 3 bolt ladder
pitch 4 A2 in kind of a corner the corner faces south west
pitch 5 A3 stright foward to a couple of x's(heads or bolts or something") up to the left another couple x's the the bivy ledge.
note this could be considered the top of pitch 4 because the traversing first pitch is really easy scramble(it brings you about 400 feet high).
Pitch 5-6 begins on the left side of the bivy ledge stright up to a bolt and A4toA1
Pitch 6 starts with hooking treverse moving right for 10 or so feet
(second penjilums or follows with seperate set of hooks)continue up left facing corner(faces north west)A3 up to A1.
Pitch 7 Is A3
Pitch 8 up to decent ledge for standing belay
Pitch 9or10 (scary flaky rock bring #3) up to the roof / past the roof almost to the top.
Note:under this roof a portaledge bivy would be outsanding.
keep up the 4th class to the top.(also a goody goody ledge).

happy hollidays from jumping fish the magical troll

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Yeah! It's so cool to climb something and then go out and look back up at it!

jumping fish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 100

Yea thanks guys!

jumping fish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 100

We used a 10mm dynamic line and a 16 strand 10.6mm Bluewater II static line.

We also used the traditonal method of aid climbing.

jumping fish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 100

probably google images.
Thats where I got them from.
I only put the pics up here to describe the route for sombody else.
I did climb it though.
I am really looking foward to climbing it agin some day.
The second go is going to be really cool because I already know what to expect for the most part anyways.

jumping fish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 100

whatever

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

Anyone who has at least been to the base of the climb would understand considering the 4th class traverse to the start of the bolts to be a pitch unto itself. Anyone simply going off of topos probably wouldn't know just how F'd up that "4th class traverse" really is.

When'd you get on it? I headed up there a week before christmas but decided that didn't have the proper gear once the nighttime temps dipped to 8F so it was off to Socal for me.

Yarp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0
jumping fish wrote:whatever
Mutton...we might have been duped. We could be dealing with a master here.
Sims · · Centennial · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 655

(Anyone who has at least been to the base of the climb would understand considering the 4th class traverse to the start of the bolts to be a pitch unto itself. Anyone simply going off of topos probably wouldn't know just how F'd up that "4th class traverse" really is.)

Really?
Well it was 34 years ago,
I do clearly remember the haul bag falling off Guano ledge with Bob G. jugging the haul line. I sure thought the bolts Harding put in were going to blow.
Thought we were soon to be hanging on the rope P Roy was cleaning.

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981
Sims wrote:Really? Well it was 34 years ago, I do clearly remember the haul bag falling off Guano ledge with Bob G. jugging the haul line. I sure thought the bolts Harding put in were going to blow. Thought we were soon to be hanging on the rope P Roy was cleaning.
Ok... your point?
Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265
jumping fish wrote:happy hollidays from jumping fish the magical troll
jumping fish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 100

I did climb it and it dosn't matter if you don't belive me.
Climbing is suposed to be a game of one upmanship.
It isn't necessary to put me down or anyone else either.
If you think you can do better than me...Go For It!

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
jumping fish wrote:Climbing is suposed to be a game of one upmanship.
Huh?
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

It may have just been a little turtleheading, muttonface. Go check.

jumping fish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 100

Well you guys are effectivally ruining my topic's.

Cole Phinney · · Astoria OR · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 50
jumping fish wrote:Well you guys are effectivally ruining my topic's.
Nope, you did it to yourself. MP just made it amusing.
jumping fish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 100

No.
I climbed a mountain and i will climb it agin.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
jumping fish wrote:No. I climbed a mountain and i will climb it agin. You'll still be sitting around having a circle jerk.
Who says we don't jerk while climbing? Win-win.
Cole Phinney · · Astoria OR · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 50
jumping fish wrote:No. I climbed a mountain and i will climb it agin. You'll still be sitting around having a circle jerk.
You going to take your own pictures this time or can we expect more google images?
Also might I suggest moving to rockclimbing.com, seems a bit more suitable home for you an your attitude.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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