By mcarizona
From Flag
Dec 28, 2011
| Good work. What are the details?
Steve | 
FLAG |
By jumping fish
Dec 28, 2011
| HI STEVE
and 3 and 4
| somewhers up there
Submitted By: jumping fish on Dec 28, 2011
|
| getting closer to the top
Submitted By: jumping fish on Dec 28, 2011
|
| hauling a lot of times
Submitted By: jumping fish on Dec 28, 2011
|
| final pitch best pitch flat roof
bring your gear smaller than 1 inch
Submitted By: jumping fish on Dec 28, 2011
|
this is the top of the route
to get down you must go over a short slab and down another slab
and a series of rappels towards the south through a corridor leads you almost there to the ground.
Pitch 1 easy traverse to old tree
Pitch 2 bolt ladder with a short section of aid
pitch 3 bolt ladder
pitch 4 A2 in kind of a corner the corner faces south west
pitch 5 A3 stright foward to a couple of x's(heads or bolts or something") up to the left another couple x's the the bivy ledge.
note this could be considered the top of pitch 4 because the traversing first pitch is really easy scramble(it brings you about 400 feet high).
Pitch 5-6 begins on the left side of the bivy ledge stright up to a bolt and A4toA1
Pitch 6 starts with hooking treverse moving right for 10 or so feet
(second penjilums or follows with seperate set of hooks)continue up left facing corner(faces north west)A3 up to A1.
Pitch 7 Is A3
Pitch 8 up to decent ledge for standing belay
Pitch 9or10 (scary flaky rock bring #3) up to the roof / past the roof almost to the top.
Note:under this roof a portaledge bivy would be outsanding.
keep up the 4th class to the top.(also a goody goody ledge).
happy hollidays from jumping fish the magical troll |
FLAG |
By Mark Hudon
Jan 13, 2012
| Yeah! It's so cool to climb something and then go out and look back up at it! |
FLAG |
By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Feb 2, 2012
| Hmmm... forgive me if I'm skeptical. I have a question though. How is it you were able to tackle something like the route in the pictures you have posted, and yet don't know what type of rope is used in modern climbing?
By jumping fish
15 hours ago
II have been climbing on a 10.5 dynamic and a 10.6 static (16 strand).
I am looking into replacing these old ropes with a new set or pair.
First concern is the construction of the static rope. I want to get the best static rope for ascension and rappelling.
I am not sure what my best option is.
Here is a list of my three choices:
Kernmantle
16 strand sheath
Double braid
Second concern is the size of the two ropes. I want them to be equal in diameter, preferably 7/16.
Any suggestions or helpful thoughts would be appreciated.
Note: I found an article in the forums previously, can't remember what it was though.
|
FLAG |
By jumping fish
Feb 2, 2012
| We used a 10mm dynamic line and a 16 strand 10.6mm Bluewater II static line.
We also used the traditonal method of aid climbing. |
FLAG |
By JLP
From The Internet
Feb 2, 2012
| Those pix look familiar - like I've seen them in someone else's trip report somewhere else on the web. |
FLAG |
By jumping fish
Feb 2, 2012
| probably google images.
Thats where I got them from.
I only put the pics up here to describe the route for sombody else.
I did climb it though.
I am really looking foward to climbing it agin some day.
The second go is going to be really cool because I already know what to expect for the most part anyways. |
FLAG |
By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Feb 2, 2012
| Yeah, probably google. People don't usually take pictures of beautiful adventurous multipitch ascents. Totally climbed it though. |
FLAG |
By kevin deweese
From walnut creek, ca
Feb 3, 2012
| Anyone who has at least been to the base of the climb would understand considering the 4th class traverse to the start of the bolts to be a pitch unto itself. Anyone simply going off of topos probably wouldn't know just how F'd up that "4th class traverse" really is.
When'd you get on it? I headed up there a week before christmas but decided that didn't have the proper gear once the nighttime temps dipped to 8F so it was off to Socal for me. |
FLAG |
By Yarp
Feb 3, 2012
| jumping fish wrote: whatever
Mutton...we might have been duped. We could be dealing with a master here. |
FLAG |
By Sims
From Centennial
Feb 3, 2012
| (Anyone who has at least been to the base of the climb would understand considering the 4th class traverse to the start of the bolts to be a pitch unto itself. Anyone simply going off of topos probably wouldn't know just how F'd up that "4th class traverse" really is.)
Really?
Well it was 34 years ago,
I do clearly remember the haul bag falling off Guano ledge with Bob G. jugging the haul line. I sure thought the bolts Harding put in were going to blow.
Thought we were soon to be hanging on the rope P Roy was cleaning. |
FLAG |
By kevin deweese
From walnut creek, ca
Feb 3, 2012
| Sims wrote: Really? Well it was 34 years ago, I do clearly remember the haul bag falling off Guano ledge with Bob G. jugging the haul line. I sure thought the bolts Harding put in were going to blow. Thought we were soon to be hanging on the rope P Roy was cleaning.
Ok... your point? |
FLAG |
By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Feb 3, 2012
| Yarp wrote: Mutton...we might have been duped. We could be dealing with a master here.
I'm telling you man. This person either rivals Einstein in IQ (with regard to trolling prowess) or is missing some chromosomes. I can't for the life of me discern which it is. |
FLAG |
By s.price
From PS,CO
Feb 3, 2012
| muttonface wrote: I'm telling you man. This person either rivals Einstein in IQ (with regard to trolling prowess) or is missing some chromosomes. I can't for the life of me discern which it is.
I'm going with missing chromosomes and a huge bullshit bone. |
FLAG |
By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Feb 3, 2012
| jumping fish wrote: happy hollidays from jumping fish the magical troll |
FLAG |
By jumping fish
Feb 3, 2012
| I did climb it and it dosn't matter if you don't belive me.
Climbing is suposed to be a game of one upmanship.
It isn't necessary to put me down or anyone else either.
If you think you can do better than me...Go For It! |
FLAG |
By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Feb 3, 2012
| jumping fish wrote: Climbing is suposed to be a game of one upmanship.
Huh? |
FLAG |
By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Feb 3, 2012
| I think this may be the first time I shit myself from gales of uncontrollable laughter. Whether a troll or not, this is pure comedy gold. |
FLAG |
By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Feb 3, 2012
| It may have just been a little turtleheading, muttonface. Go check. |
FLAG |
By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Feb 3, 2012
| jumping fish wrote: dosn't... belive... suposed...
| i no its spelt rong.
Submitted By: Jake Jones on Feb 3, 2012
| |
FLAG |
By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Feb 3, 2012
| jumping fish wrote: If you think you can do better than me...Go For It!
I have. However easy or insignificant, I've actually climbed the shit I say I have. |
FLAG |
By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Feb 3, 2012
| Stich wrote: It may have just been a little turtleheading, muttonface. Go check.
We call it prairie-dogging here in the east. False alarm. |
FLAG |
By jumping fish
Feb 3, 2012
| Well you guys are effectivally ruining my topic's. |
FLAG |
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