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jumping fish
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Dec 28, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 100
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mcarizona
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Dec 28, 2011
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Flag
· Joined Feb 2007
· Points: 180
Good work. What are the details? Steve
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jumping fish
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Dec 28, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 100
HI STEVE and 3 and 4 this is the top of the route to get down you must go over a short slab and down another slab and a series of rappels towards the south through a corridor leads you almost there to the ground.
Pitch 1 easy traverse to old tree Pitch 2 bolt ladder with a short section of aid pitch 3 bolt ladder pitch 4 A2 in kind of a corner the corner faces south west pitch 5 A3 stright foward to a couple of x's(heads or bolts or something") up to the left another couple x's the the bivy ledge. note this could be considered the top of pitch 4 because the traversing first pitch is really easy scramble(it brings you about 400 feet high). Pitch 5-6 begins on the left side of the bivy ledge stright up to a bolt and A4toA1 Pitch 6 starts with hooking treverse moving right for 10 or so feet (second penjilums or follows with seperate set of hooks)continue up left facing corner(faces north west)A3 up to A1. Pitch 7 Is A3 Pitch 8 up to decent ledge for standing belay Pitch 9or10 (scary flaky rock bring #3) up to the roof / past the roof almost to the top. Note:under this roof a portaledge bivy would be outsanding. keep up the 4th class to the top.(also a goody goody ledge).
happy hollidays from jumping fish the magical troll
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Mark Hudon
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Jan 13, 2012
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Lives on the road
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 420
Yeah! It's so cool to climb something and then go out and look back up at it!
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jumping fish
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Feb 2, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 100
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jumping fish
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Feb 2, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 100
We used a 10mm dynamic line and a 16 strand 10.6mm Bluewater II static line. We also used the traditonal method of aid climbing.
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jumping fish
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Feb 2, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 100
probably google images. Thats where I got them from. I only put the pics up here to describe the route for sombody else. I did climb it though. I am really looking foward to climbing it agin some day. The second go is going to be really cool because I already know what to expect for the most part anyways.
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jumping fish
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Feb 2, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 100
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Kevin DeWeese
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Feb 3, 2012
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@failfalling - Oakland, Ca
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 981
Anyone who has at least been to the base of the climb would understand considering the 4th class traverse to the start of the bolts to be a pitch unto itself. Anyone simply going off of topos probably wouldn't know just how F'd up that "4th class traverse" really is. When'd you get on it? I headed up there a week before christmas but decided that didn't have the proper gear once the nighttime temps dipped to 8F so it was off to Socal for me.
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Yarp
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Feb 3, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 0
jumping fish wrote:whatever Mutton...we might have been duped. We could be dealing with a master here.
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Sims
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Feb 3, 2012
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Centennial
· Joined Sep 2007
· Points: 655
(Anyone who has at least been to the base of the climb would understand considering the 4th class traverse to the start of the bolts to be a pitch unto itself. Anyone simply going off of topos probably wouldn't know just how F'd up that "4th class traverse" really is.) Really? Well it was 34 years ago, I do clearly remember the haul bag falling off Guano ledge with Bob G. jugging the haul line. I sure thought the bolts Harding put in were going to blow. Thought we were soon to be hanging on the rope P Roy was cleaning.
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Kevin DeWeese
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Feb 3, 2012
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@failfalling - Oakland, Ca
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 981
Sims wrote:Really? Well it was 34 years ago, I do clearly remember the haul bag falling off Guano ledge with Bob G. jugging the haul line. I sure thought the bolts Harding put in were going to blow. Thought we were soon to be hanging on the rope P Roy was cleaning. Ok... your point?
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Marc H
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Feb 3, 2012
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Longmont, CO
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 265
jumping fish wrote:happy hollidays from jumping fish the magical troll
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jumping fish
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Feb 3, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 100
I did climb it and it dosn't matter if you don't belive me. Climbing is suposed to be a game of one upmanship. It isn't necessary to put me down or anyone else either. If you think you can do better than me...Go For It!
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Tim Stich
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Feb 3, 2012
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,520
jumping fish wrote:Climbing is suposed to be a game of one upmanship. Huh?
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Tim Stich
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Feb 3, 2012
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,520
It may have just been a little turtleheading, muttonface. Go check.
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jumping fish
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Feb 3, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 100
Well you guys are effectivally ruining my topic's.
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Cole Phinney
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Feb 3, 2012
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Astoria OR
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 50
jumping fish wrote:Well you guys are effectivally ruining my topic's. Nope, you did it to yourself. MP just made it amusing.
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jumping fish
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Feb 3, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 100
No. I climbed a mountain and i will climb it agin.
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Tim Stich
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Feb 3, 2012
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,520
jumping fish wrote:No. I climbed a mountain and i will climb it agin. You'll still be sitting around having a circle jerk. Who says we don't jerk while climbing? Win-win.
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Cole Phinney
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Feb 3, 2012
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Astoria OR
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 50
jumping fish wrote:No. I climbed a mountain and i will climb it agin. You'll still be sitting around having a circle jerk. You going to take your own pictures this time or can we expect more google images? Also might I suggest moving to rockclimbing.com, seems a bit more suitable home for you an your attitude.
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