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Private Idaho
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores 
Battered Sandwich 
Beckey-Stanley 
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All 
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All (2) 
Brave the suppressed laughter of the tweeny maid 
Curious Poses 
Eraserhead 
I am in top a shader 
I Can See Your House From Here 
Imagine Your Best Student Here 
Istanbul 
Magic Fern 
Noodle 
prairie fire that wanders, The 
S & S 
Senior Citizens in Space 
Spineless 
Tea Bag 
Three trucks stacked on top of each other 
unnamed 7 
Wet Dream 

I am in top a shader 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Darryl Cramer, Jon Nelson
Page Views: 417
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Sep 23, 2011
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The crack section of I am in top a shader.

Description 

A bouldery face move off the ground leads to a bolt. Traverse left on a large edge and go up to a mantle with a bolt (can be done by stepping in from the left). The face crux involves climbing from the ledge to the start of the crack.

The crack crux is at the bottom. Soon thereafter, a sequence of two hand pods is reached, providing some rest. But the crack remains interesting and pumpy to the top.


Location 

This is the first route to the left of "900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores". It ascends the obvious thin crack on the headwall.

It is very easy to set up a top-rope on this route. You can walk onto the top belay ledge from the trail above the cliff. Look for the hand-rail chain - it is in the area below "Peanuts to serve you" at Lookout Point.


Protection 

Four bolts, an optional fixed pin at the start of the crack and a fixed pin where the route joins "Beckey-Stanley" near the top. The crack takes small nuts and cams.



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By Drewsky
Jan 13, 2012

This is a great climb. If you're short, the rating might provoke some shame, however. The slabby face crux is 100% granite: weird and hard. I'm not sure if it's still there, but a knifeblade piton at the crux seemed somewhat of an obstacle/curiosity and didn't seem to add much to the protection. The crack is excellent and makes this climb a real joy after the thrutchy slab crux.