A bouldery face move off the ground leads to a bolt. Traverse left on a large edge and go up to a mantle with a bolt (can be done by stepping in from the left). The face crux involves climbing from the ledge to the start of the crack.
The crack crux is at the bottom. Soon thereafter, a sequence of two hand pods is reached, providing some rest. But the crack remains interesting and pumpy to the top.
This is the first route to the left of "900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores". It ascends the obvious thin crack on the headwall.
It is very easy to set up a top-rope on this route. You can walk onto the top belay ledge from the trail above the cliff. Look for the hand-rail chain - it is in the area below "Peanuts to serve you" at Lookout Point.
Four bolts, an optional fixed pin at the start of the crack and a fixed pin where the route joins "Beckey-Stanley" near the top. The crack takes small nuts and cams.
|Comments on I am in top a shader
Jan 13, 2012
This is a great climb. If you're short, the rating might provoke some shame, however. The slabby face crux is 100% granite: weird and hard. I'm not sure if it's still there, but a knifeblade piton at the crux seemed somewhat of an obstacle/curiosity and didn't seem to add much to the protection. The crack is excellent and makes this climb a real joy after the thrutchy slab crux.