Type: Trad, Ice, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,824 total · 16/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is fun, but is it legal? Curious? This is a south-facing ice route right off I-70 1 mile before the Silverplume exit. You can scope the 2nd pitch from Georgetown/Guanella Pass Road.

P1. The 1st pitch is in an obvious pullout and is probably a driver distraction. The ice is thinner than it looks. WI4-. You can walk off to the right. Per Da Burger: this is in the I-70 right of way owned by CDOT and the State of Colorado. I-70 Right of Way TS 1837, 1959, and 1957 (NM).

P2. The 2nd pitch has a broad curtain of 40-80 feet WI3-4. Walk off to the right. This locale can get balmy. Per Da Burger: this is on an undeveloped mining site owned by Clear Creek County (HUGAG MS  #1913).

I am not sure about the parking issues. Be smart.

Per Da Burger: parking follows the Colorado Revised Statute:

§ 42-4-1202. Parking or abandonment of vehicles (on Colorado State Highways).

(1) No person shall stop, park, or leave standing any vehicle, either attended or unattended, outside of a business or a residential district, upon the paved or improved and main-traveled part of the highway....

(2) Any person who violates any provision of this section commits a class B traffic infraction.

Protection Suggest change

Ice screws: stubbies or medium length for the 1st pitch.

Toprope Protection Suggest change

Trees for the 1st pitch. Sling trees/shrubs for the 2nd.

At the top of the LH flow, there is a new 2-bolt anchor.

At the top of the freestanding pillar, there is a 2-bolt anchor on the wall that may exposed depending on ice growth.

A 2-bolt SS ground top anchor exists up and left from the top of the freestanding pillar. It is marked by a vertical 3’ tall rebar rod.

Access Info Suggest change

If you plan to climb the I-70 Sickle or on the tier above, you should definitely exercise common sense and not park anywhere close to the traffic lanes, block in fellow climbers' cars, or get stuck in that wee pullout to require assistance in extricating your vehicle(s). Such would likely bring unwanted attention from those with less insight into the reasons why we are drawn to ascend such bits of solid water or the like. If in doubt, continue on to your plan B for the day.

Per Rob Griz: do not park on any part of the paved highway shoulder! A sturdy metal shovel and chains could be handy tools to have.

Photos

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