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Obvious dihedral crack system. Bolts and holds lead you left of the roof to the crux. The fat crack is avoided by climbing the face to the right. Great airy finish. Lead ground up by Geir with four bolts place with aid, three were added to take out the R. The free FA was left for the next party.
Work right past the Knight then follow ramps up hill staying left. Work past the first fin of rock. The second taller fin is known as the Lorax. From the gully on the right side climb dihedral with roof at the top of the dihedral.
Bolts and light rack up to #3 camalot.
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
This is a fun climb with a great ending. Eric took some time to teach me some ground-up techniques, and I got to try them out on this climb. Bosch Hammerdrill - $500 ... hanging on hooks & drilling in the howling wind - priceless!
Thanks Erica & Maite for doing the climb free and making it official. :)
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Apr 29, 2009
Cleaned a 400 lb. block off this yesterday that everyone had climbed on. It went right down the belay gully and made a real mess of it. We are a little worried that pulling the rope might cause loose stuff to hit people so we suggest moving up and right to the base of Bowling for Bikers and Rocky Road before pulling your rap lines. You can then rap from there.