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Hypotenuse T,S 
Sophokles S 

Hypotenuse 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Fall/Spring
Page Views: 616
Submitted By: Dan G0D5H411 on Jan 10, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Approximate route position and belays

Description 

A stunning line that diagonals up and right across the south face of Sourloti. Expect consistent climbing with thought-provoking cruxes, good face sequences and even sections of stemming in long water grooves. All cruxes are well protected by Meteora standards but it would still be "unadvisable" to fall during certain traversing sections. Bolts counts below are from memory and should be taken with a grain of salt (or a swig of Ouzo)

P1(5.3): From the shared start at the base of the south face, traverse left and up across a band of exceptionally large cobbles. 1 bolt, 130 ft.

P2(5.9): Pull a small roof, angle up and right past a short crux. 4 bolts, 130 ft.

P3(5.10): Trend up and right towards a water groove, where the route merges with Linie des Fallenden Tropfens. Follow this groove (crux) up to a two-bolt belay. 4 bolts, 160 ft.

P4(5.9): Leave the groove, following an upward, rightward direction. 8 bolts, 110 ft.

P5(5.9+): Cross over Sophocles aiming for engaging stemming in a short, black groove. Before reaching the top of this groove, traverse 5 ft to the right for the proper belay. Awesome pitch! 5 bolts, 110 ft.

P6(5.6): Move right to a bolt and continue up easier ground. Although not too technical, the top of this pitch is very runout on vegetated cobbles. There are opportunities on this pitch to place a few nuts and a couple of natural threads. If you feel inclined to use the threads, be sure to bring extra cords...the existing tat is in need of replacement. 1 bolt, 150 ft.

Location 

Follow the Sourloti directions for the shared, south face start and east face rappel descent.

Protection 

12 draws and additional long runners to alleviate rope drag, 2 ropes, optional set of medium/large nuts and cord for the last pitch.


Photos of Hypotenuse Slideshow Add Photo
The village of Kastraki as seen from Hypotenuse.
The village of Kastraki as seen from Hypotenuse.
Looking down from mid-way up the route.
Looking down from mid-way up the route.

Comments on Hypotenuse Add Comment
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By rpc
Jan 24, 2012

wonderful line with some spectacular climbing & views (& a fun summit adds to the goodness)...supposedly an enterprising farmer once got a herd of sheep/goats? onto the summit plateau for a season of grazing in the sky :)