Login with Facebook
Nightmare Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
And Metal for All S 
Big Daddy Overhang T 
Big daddy's Ramp T 
Claim Jumper T 
Dirty Sanchez, The T,S 
Endodontic Treatment, The T 
Grand Daddy Overhang T 
Hypertension T 
It's a Potpourri! T,S 
Morpheus S 
Perspective T 
Presto S 
Sentry Box T 
Short Sentry T 
Who's Your Daddy? T 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nicol, Weinstein 1975
Page Views: 2,044
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


A beguiling, I-think-I-can-do-that offwidth that seems to prove most people wrong.

Start w/ 5.9 hands to fist. Then a one move transitional pod, and finally about 12' of overhanging, leaning perfect 4.5 Camalot. Ends with a couple of easy moves and chains. If you have fat knees, this climb could be pretty tough, though at least they won't be bruised the next day.


The obvious wide crack on the southernmost, lowest section of Nightmare Rock. This is the first part of NM one encounters on the trail from the road.


Camalots: 1-#2, 2-#3, 1 or 2 #4, 1 #4.5. A #5 C4 would probably work instead of the 4.5. A #6 will not fit throughout most, if not all, of the crux.

Photos of Hypertension Slideshow Add Photo
Alan crushing Hypertension
Alan crushing Hypertension
Great stacks
Great stacks
Getting situated after the crux (transitioning fro...
Getting situated after the crux (transitioning fro...
The exit moves
The exit moves
top part of Hypertension
top part of Hypertension

Comments on Hypertension Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark van Eijk
Apr 22, 2015

A very clean, aesthetic line that is rarely crowded. Also a great exercise in stacking and a very logical progression from split beaver. Like its little brother, most of the difficulties lie in the last third, but they are more sustained, on steeper rock, and with fewer features to offer solace.

Starts with 30 feet of splitter crack that slowly opens from perfect to cupped to fist. A few good features in the crack grant access to a body-sized pod and a rest. From here you are confronted with a very strenuous transition to the upper crack, which for me was just too small for a knee. A desperate calf-lock allows for progress to the final 15 feet of sustained hand-fist stacks and tight knees. Wear jeans!

In new camalot sizes you can sew it up on 1-#2, 2#3, 2#4, and 2#5. The top will not take a 6.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!