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Nightmare Rock
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nicol, Weinstein 1975
Page Views: 1,261
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 12, 2007
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A beguiling, I-think-I-can-do-that offwidth that seems to prove most people wrong.

Start w/ 5.9 hands to fist. Then a one move transitional pod, and finally about 12' of overhanging, leaning perfect 4.5 Camalot. Ends with a couple of easy moves and chains. If you have fat knees, this climb could be pretty tough, though at least they won't be bruised the next day.


The obvious wide crack on the southernmost, lowest section of Nightmare Rock. This is the first part of NM one encounters on the trail from the road.


Camalots: 1-#2, 2-#3, 1 or 2 #4, 1 #4.5. A #5 C4 would probably work instead of the 4.5. A #6 will not fit throughout most, if not all, of the crux.

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