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 ADVANCED
Rabbit Rock - Southwest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Go Spud Go! S 
Hyperspuds T,S 
No Satisfaction T 
Redtail S 
Roughleg T 
Seasonal Employment  T 
Spuds in the Gym S 
Sudden Pleasure S 

Hyperspuds 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Bingham and Pokey Amory 1987
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

This pumpy route is slightly harder than its classy neighbors. (Redtail and Sudden Pleasure) These three classics would make a great three star morning in the shade. The cruxes are well protected with bolts and gear, but they are still mentally taxing since you are climbing liebacks on the bottom half of the route.

Watch out for the prairie falcon in the nest just right of the route. You could add a letter grade, if you are getting dive bombed at the crux.

Location 

Hyperspuds is located about 50ft to the right of Redtail.

Protection 

4 bolts, 0.4&0.75 camalot, 2-3 green aliens/red C3, option long sling for horn tie-off


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By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Oct 24, 2014

Amazing route!! Bold, sustained, simply brilliant! Unlike anything Iíve climbed at the city. As far as the gradeÖ Iíll just say that itís by far the hardest ď11bĒ Ive climbed at the city. Enjoy!
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 18, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The gear recommendations are spot on (blue metolius works in lieu of Aliens), as is the above comment regarding the grade. This thing is great but hard, especially when compared to routes of a similar grade.

The anchors are in need of some TLC. They are bolts with webbing, some of which is severely sun bleached. I didn't have any extra with me at the time - c'est la vie. Bring some with you.

One of my favorite 11's in the whole city.
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