Hyperion
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.06395, -116.15202 |
| FA: | FA: D. O'Kelley & D. Davis 1970: FFA: John Long, Kevin Worrall, Tobin Sorenson & Rick Accomazzo, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 4,996 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on Dec 18, 2005 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Begin at the left end of the south face and climb a low angle crack (some loose rock) that eventually becomes steeper and arches right underneath a large roof. The crux (11d), protected by a #00 TCU, black alien, or small stopper, entails committing moves to the portion of the crack where the roof begins. From here, underclings and hand / fist jams for 80 ft. lead to the anchors (sustained 5.10).
- A two bolt direct start is possible about 20' right of the normal start and joins the route after the crux making this an easier option (5.11a, FA; Curt Shannon).
Pitch #2 (5.10) is a short traverse and consists of climbing that is comparable to the latter part of the first pitch.
Pitch #3 (11d) is initially very bouldery and deceptively difficult from the onset. Very small cams / stoppers and two fixed copperheads (solid) protect the hardest moves.
Classic route in a secluded setting.



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