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This is a punchy, thrilling and super enjoyable new route in the Vestibule. Begin with a tough move off a right hand tooth with poor feet. Climb to the arete for a sequential and powerful section on sidepulls, crimps, and pinches to gain an okay rest at the fourth bolt. From here, turn left onto the immaculate face where you will deliberate your options: A) punch it (read: jump!) off the crimps to the ledge above, B) smear your feet on some awful little edges and static it, C) yell TAKE and go cry to your moms. Finish with some techy-ness on really cool slopers and crimps to the anchor.
This is to the right of 'Chateau Vert' to the left of 'The Quickening.'
6 bolts to an anchor. A stick clip is mandatory for the first bolt! An attentive belay will keep you well clear of the slab to the right, so relax.
|By Jonathan Siegrist|
From: his truck
Aug 9, 2012
5.13? B? C? not sure. New routes... never sure. What do you think? Do it!!!!!!