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Hyperbola Direct Start 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 843
Submitted By: MOConnor on Nov 24, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Looking down from the top of the finger crack.

Description 

The direct start is a good variation to the original if you don't feel like 5.9 R slab climbing. Step up on the ledge next to the tree. Pull onto the face up to the first bolt on pretty good holds. You can sling the tree, a flake, or get a bomber yellow #2 C3 in before the first bolt. Pull onto a creaky flake (feels bad but it will hold) Make some hard moves to clip the 2nb bolt and get to the sloper rail. Delicate climbing up to a little horn which feels like a jug at this point get a good shake and work up the side pulls. Bust out right to a good gaston (you can get a 000 C3 under the flake but I'm not sure it would hold, more of a mental piece) Pull over the bulge on bad slopers and worse feet then make your way back to the left to a really fun finger crack and meet up with the original route.

Location 

110 yards right of Sundial Crack.

Protection 

2 bolts, standard Looking Glass rack.


Photos of Hyperbola Direct Start Slideshow Add Photo
Having fun on Hyperbola Direct Start. First clip was a little high ended up slinging a tree on the way up..
Having fun on Hyperbola Direct Start. First clip w...

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By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Jun 2, 2013

P2 has a shitty rusty bolt visible from the P1 anchors. Decent gear and fun moves right off the anchor 5.9+ up to a gear belay in an eyebrow above the bulge ~ 80-100 ft. P3 slab it out in a groove trending towards the nose anchor (up and climbers left) for a full 240 ft (70m rope doesnt quite make the anchor but gets you to 5.1 terrain) 5.6/7 ish.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 28, 2013

I would suggest placing a nut below the first bolt at the base of the flake instead of a cam. A nut will be more likely to hold and not break the flake. Don't place pro that relies on expansion to hold when it is in something loose or questionable.
By munkeybog
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

one could whip on this safely... but who the bleep wants to. Good gawd what a great line. Just put on your big boy/girl panties when stepping over the flake after the 2nd bolt. And sure as Mr. Caldwell points out, passive gear is less likely to explode the flake, but the durn things flexes when you undercling it. Just stick with the bigboy panties.