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Hyperbola Direct Start
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 42
votes
Routes in Nose Area
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Crescendo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dum Dee Dum Dum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hyperbola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Hyperbola Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Last Day In The Rainforest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Linear Progression T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Peregrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sensemilia Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Southern Crescent T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sundial Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Wrench In My Pocket S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Eddie Beggon , Mike Artz and Chris Caldwell. |
| Page Views: | 4,331 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Mike O'Connor on Nov 24, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
The direct start is a good variation to the original if you don't feel like 5.9 R slab climbing. Step up on the ledge next to the tree. Pull onto the face up to the first bolt on pretty good holds. You can sling the tree, a flake, or get a bomber yellow #2 C3 in before the first bolt. Pull onto a creaky flake (feels bad but it will hold) Make some hard moves to clip the 2nb bolt and get to the sloper rail. Delicate climbing up to a little horn which feels like a jug at this point get a good shake and work up the side pulls. Bust out right to a good gaston (you can get a 000 C3 under the flake but I'm not sure it would hold, more of a mental piece) Pull over the bulge on bad slopers and worse feet then make your way back to the left to a really fun finger crack and meet up with the original route.
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