|f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Don't let the name fool you - this is a a nice face route. It's been getting more polished over the years. Sometimes it's hard to find it open because guides work it, and it's a very popular TR/group hangout.
This one is all about the footwork, baby.
P1 - Climb the thin face (crux) right of the Finger Locks or Cedar Box crack to a small projection just below a bulge. Climb over bulge, then up the nice face past a slightly harder section to a big ledge and pine tree belay.
P2 - Williams describes a second pitch, but it's seldom, if ever, done. If you must go to the top, I would recommend finishing with Triple Bulges.
Rappel from the first pitch from a tree, or bolts above Northern Pillar. From the cliff top, rappel from the top of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress.
On the Guides' Wall, just right of the prominent hand crack (Finger Locks or Cedar Box) and a tree.
Standard rack. There is good gear, but get a good spot since you'll be doing the crux moves before you get the good gear.
Jun 21, 2010
The crux is easier if you're tall. Gear beta: purple C3 fits perfectly in the first horizontal, from there if you can reach the next horizontal, you're golden.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R
What a sweet little climb! Leading this climb was suuuuuuch great experience for me. Be careful! Gear is good but there are definitely a few moves you really don't want to fall on. I used the purple cam down low as mentioned above.
Apr 14, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
Overall, a great little pitch. I really enjoyed it.
I give it a "PG-13":
with a small c3 in that first horizontal and a sinker c4 in the next one, and with decent feet to fiddle them in, I don't see this as "R" rated. Get a good spot, yes, but look around before takeoff for the feet, they're there.