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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge
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Brown Smear? T WI5- R |
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Crystal Meth Left T,TR WI3 M3 PG13 |
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Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+ |
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Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R |
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Icy Chim T M5-6 R |
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L of Lochluster T WI4 M4 |
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Loch Ness Monster (AKA Crystal Meth) T WI4+ |
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Lochluster T WI3 |
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M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R |
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Mixed Emotions T,TR WI5- M5 |
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Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R |
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Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3 |
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Pointlessness T M7 |
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R of Lochluster TR WI4- |
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Replicant (unnamed) TR M6 |
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Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R |
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Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R |
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| Type: | Mixed, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ethan Gutmann and Ryan Vachon (2003) |
| Page Views: | 1,142 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Vachon on Apr 22, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
I am sorry to say that I only reported this ascent to our lost friend, Jack R, back in 2002, and forgot to follow up since. I hope that others can confirm or add to what I share here.
The route that we ascended begins with the traverse to Mixed Emotions, but before you reach the ME business, cut straight up though a very obvious crack. The gear will happen in that lip, and then you can rest up on a ledge of rock or ice, depending on the conditions.
The route then continues up the face (occasional ice smears, depending upon the year) 20-30 feet to the left of Mixed Emotions. This part of the route is really precarious, and the tiny cams are hard to set. The line finishes at the large tree at the lip.
The route that we ascended begins with the traverse to Mixed Emotions, but before you reach the ME business, cut straight up though a very obvious crack. The gear will happen in that lip, and then you can rest up on a ledge of rock or ice, depending on the conditions.
The route then continues up the face (occasional ice smears, depending upon the year) 20-30 feet to the left of Mixed Emotions. This part of the route is really precarious, and the tiny cams are hard to set. The line finishes at the large tree at the lip.
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