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Hyalite Canyon
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Hyalite Canyon 


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Administrators: grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Joe Josephson on Oct 31, 2008

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Potential road closures in winter. MORE INFO >>>


Hyalite Reservoir November 2010

Description 

With over 150 ice routes in less than 3 square miles, Hyalite Canyon represents the most concentrated, natural ice climbing venue in North America.

Home to all-time classics like "Cleopatra's Needle," "Black Magic," "Mummy Cooler," "Winter Dance," one of the top ten routes in the world (yes I said world), Hyalite is unique in every sense of that word.

The South Fork (Cody) might have more vertical but it's spread out and inconsistent with scrappy approaches. Keystone Canyon and Lake Willoughby certainly vie for the densest cliffs on the continent except for perhaps a few fjords in Newfoundland and Quebec once every 10 years. Ouray has way more concentrated ice than anywhere but most of it is in the ice park; the climbing equivalent of farm raised salmon (and about as overcrowded). Of course the Canadian Rockies, both the Mecca and Medina of the frozen world, has over 10 times the number of routes and all of them longer – but over an area roughly the size of Maryland. North Conway has killer ice; when it's not raining. I've been to them all so cut it anyway you like, declare yourself a hero because you prefer long alpine or mixed climbs, stir in whatever hyperbole you favor and pass the single malt; Hyalite is the most concentrated, easily accessible and consistent ice climbing venue in North America. And I'm not the only widely-traveled climber to say it's our favorite too.


Getting There 

South of Bozeman, MT about 45 minutes from Downtown, depending on road conditions. Routes range from 10 minutes to 2 hours from the car.
"Winter Dance" is the definitive guidebook in full color.
www.firstascentpress.com/winter-dance.html


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hyalite Canyon:
The Thrill is Gone   M4     Mixed, 1 pitch, 205 feet   The Unnamed Wall
The Dribbles   WI4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450 feet   Dribbles Area
Genesis I   WI3+     TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Genesis Area
Mummy II   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 140 feet   Mummy Area
Lower Green Sleeves   WI3-     TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Genesis Area
Twin Falls Left + Right   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 200 feet   Twin Falls Area
Genesis II   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Genesis Area
The Matrix   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 130 feet   Mummy Area
The Elevator Shaft   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 115 feet   The Unnamed Wall
The Scepter   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Mummy Area
Cleopatra's Needle   WI5     Ice, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Twin Falls Area
5.6 Crack   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Practice Rock
Strawberry Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Practice Rock
The Fiver   5.8     Trad, 70 feet   Practice Rock
Blind Black Babies   5.9     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Practice Rock
Rosebush Crack   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Practice Rock
Wizards Well   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Practice Rock
Theoretically   5.10+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Practice Rock
Last of the Wild Ones Variation   5.11a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Practice Rock
Tough Trip Through Paradise   5.11b/c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Practice Rock
Browse More Classics in Hyalite Canyon

Featured Route For Hyalite Canyon
The Elevator Shaft, February 2011

The Elevator Shaft WI4-  MT : Hyalite Canyon : The Unnamed Wall
This climb differs from others on the Unnamed Wall in that it is tucked away in a small, north facing cleft. It receives much less sun and is usually more brittle than nearby climbs such as The Fat One. However, this a great climb and a good transition for a WI 3 leader wanting to get a taste of leading steeper ice. The short initial pillar is WI 4 and the crux. The climbing becomes easier upon entering the narrow gully, which has a couple steeper steps and ends in a small bowl. A new chain anch...[more]   Browse More Classics in MT


Photos of Hyalite Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
The Scepter

The Scepter

climbers on the dribbles

climbers on the dribbles

winter dance! <br />

winter dance!


Morning climb on G1

Morning climb on G1

School Project

School Project

Responsible Family Men in splitter conditions

Responsible Family Men in splitter conditions

Hyalite Goods

BETA PHOTO: Hyalite Goods

Sunny Hyalite Goods

Sunny Hyalite Goods


Comments on Hyalite Canyon Add Comment
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By ozman
From: CO / NM
Apr 3, 2012

If you only have a few days to climb, make sure you go to the unamed wall. Its by far the best way to get a lot of climbing in. The rest of the climbs are spread out all over the place. On second thought, go to Cody.