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Hwy 33/Ojai

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Derrydale Cliff 
Foothill Crag ("The Foot") 
Fortress, The 
Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering 
Matilija Wall 
Potrero John 
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) 
Shelf Ridge 
Upper Foothill (The Hideout) 
Wheeler Gorge 

Hwy 33/Ojai 


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Location: 34.4873, -119.303 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 348,323
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 13, 2006
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Humboldt Lilies, growing along Hwy-33 above Ojai

Description 

The 2-lane California Highway 33 branches off from the 101 freeway in Ventura and winds itself north, skirting the quaint town of Ojai. If you are driving north from Ventura, the crags are in the following sequence:

  • Wheeler Gorge (aka Twin Tunnels) - 21.0 miles from the intersection of Hwy 101 and CA-33.
  • Pine Mountain - east of Hwy 33, north of Pine Mountain Inn, and 52.5 miles from the intersection of Hwy 101 and CA-33.


Getting There 

From the beachside town of Ventura, head north towards Ojai on 33. Refer to crag descriptions for additional directions.

Here's a map to get your bearings.


Climbing Season


269 Total Routes


['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',90],['2 Stars',87],['1 Star',64],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',8],['5.8',8],['5.9',21],['5.10',30],['5.11',16],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',53],['V2-3',61],['V4-5',32],['V6-7',12],['V8-9',8],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',6],['>=V14',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hwy 33/Ojai:
Fifteen Years On Ice   V0 4     Boulder   Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds
Rapunzel   V1 5 R     Boulder, 25'   Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge
Quiet Soul   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge
Painted Carnaval   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   Pine Mountain : Picnic Area Boulders
Happy Hunting Grounds (a.k.a. Heaven on Top)   V3 6A     Boulder, 25'   Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds
Burn Off   V4 6B     Boulder, 8'   Pine Mountain : Lower Ridge
Wet Dreams   V4 6B     Boulder   Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds
Gardez l'eau   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge
Sock Hop   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 20'   Pine Mountain : Lower Ridge
Dissing Euros   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds
Clawing at the Walls   V7 7A+     Boulder   Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge
Gyroscope   V8 7B     Boulder, 8'   Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds
Tree Root   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Pipe Cleaner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 160'   Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Ending Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
South of the Trout Farm   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Wheeler Gorge
Permanent Income Hypothesis   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   The Fortress : Right Side Gully
Economique   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Wheeler Gorge
Danger Boy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Wheeler Gorge
Silent Mind   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Wheeler Gorge
Browse More Classics in Hwy 33/Ojai

Featured Route For Hwy 33/Ojai
Rob Chaney climbs Economique, at Wheeler Gorge.

Economique 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Central Coast : ... : Wheeler Gorge
This route follows the arete and face around the corner to the left of Goulara. Sustained and interesting climbing with great exposure! One 5.10a move followed by mostly-5.8 climbing.Clip the first three bolts of Goulara, turn the corner and follow bolts to the top.The crux of the route is right off the ground and unprotected--bring a stick-clip.Consider leading the first six bolts of Economique, extending the seventh with a long runner, and finishing on the anchors of Goulara--this is a great...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Hwy 33/Ojai Slideshow Add Photo
Hwy 33 (Ventura/Ojai) Overview
BETA PHOTO: Hwy 33 (Ventura/Ojai) Overview
Overview of Los Padres, including the Foot, Wheeler Gorge, and Sespe Gorge.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of Los Padres, including the Foot, Wheele...
Comments on Hwy 33/Ojai Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 3, 2013
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 5, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

It's been a rough few weeks gear-wise. If anyone found an Edelrid Mega-Jul belay device at Wheeler Gorge or a heavily used gold Omega Pacific Link-Cam at Sespe (roughly level with the P1 belay station of Ending Crack) and wished to return it, I would generously reward the effort.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 17, 2008

Cool geological information about the Sespe Gorge area

By t-rev
Feb 7, 2009

Has anyone here climbed Chouinard-Bossier on Matilija wall? Or does anyone know about the access situation? There's not much info out there for this route.

By C Runyan
From: Pennsylvania
Sep 14, 2009

t-rev: Full topos, photos, and other details about Matilija, Cathedral Peak, and a number of other gems missing from the Falcon Guide can be found in the out-of-print 1994 guide "Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 10, 2010

I spent a fair amount of time trying to get good access for Matilija. Got a guy who has "closed" the road to give me access but not to open the road to the public. We could get it open but no one seemed intereseted about fighting for it and the rangers were indifferent. This was for the West Camino Cielo access. You can still get there via a horrible scrample up from the res but it's ridiculous unless you want it badly, which is why I said in my guide that it's probably more time efficient to drive to the Sierra. If someone was was amped about the place and wanted to do some work I think decent access could be gained.

By Davi Rivas
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 12, 2010

I jus posted some pics of Matilija Wall, any takers?

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 6, 2012

For automobile aficionados:
Where does Car & Driver Magazine go to test drive a 500-hp super car?..

Highway-33, of course. Look for Wheeler Gorge in this video

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 3, 2013

A workaday road that cuts through California's back story