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DescriptionIn large area just north of Hwy 166 on the SLO/Santa Barbara Co border that is similar to the Pinnacles of N.Cal in look and feel. The rock quality, if possible, is actually worse than its northern cousin rendering trad routes mighty scare. There are a few different crags that vary greatly, from adventure climbing on Mt Doom to the outdoor gym that is Owl Tor. The area has about 100 routes total and all you need is a rack of draws, some guns, and a little gumption. Getting ThereTake Hwy 166 east of Santa Maria for about 30 minutes to Rock Front Ranch. Turn left. The Owl Tor is .5 mile and Mr Lees Greater Hong Kong is at around mile 2.5. In between you'll find routes on many formations. Also, 3 sport routes can be found on a rock right on 166, as well as a block down in the creek. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hwy 166/Silly Rock:
Flowers on Venus 5.8+ 5.8+ PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Big Rocks
Sith 5.9+ PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Miller's Crossing
Jump to Hyperspace 5.10b/c PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Miller's Crossing
The Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Power") 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Owl Tor
Anchor Punch 5.12a Sport Owl Tor
When The Sea Doesn't Want You 5.12a Sport Owl Tor
Auto Magic 5.12a Sport, 30 feet Owl Tor
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners 5.12b Sport, 60 feet Owl Tor
The Old Pro Skill 5.12d Sport Owl Tor
Old Shatterhand 5.12d Sport Owl Tor
Chips Ahoy 5.12d Sport, 60 feet Owl Tor
Hai Karate 5.12d Sport Owl Tor
Crocodile Hunter 5.12d Sport, 80 feet Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong
Wild Kingdom 5.13a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong
Better Than Life 5.13c Sport, 60 feet Owl Tor
Gala Gala Happy 5.13d Sport Owl Tor
Buddhist Palm 5.13d Sport, 60 feet Mr. Lees Greater Hong Kong
Strictly Ballroom 5.14a Sport, 60 feet Owl Tor
Terrible Angel 5.14+ Sport, 60 feet Owl Tor
Featured Route For Hwy 166/Silly Rock
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners 5.12b CA : Central Coast : ... : Owl Tor
The biggest holds you'll ever fall off of. A true Owl Tor 5.12 endurance testpiece, Hell (as it is affectionately known) consists of powerful lateral throws, lunges, matches, and cross-overs, then finishes with a highly non-trivial crux. An attentive belayer will mitigate the potential ground-fall at the end, but the prospect of smacking the slab beneath you is still a bit hair-raising. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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