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 ADVANCED
West Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 
Hwan Kap T,TR 
Left-facing Dihedral T 
Shaft, The S 
Tin Can Arete T,TR 
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 
Unknown 5 T,S 
Unknown 7+ T,S 
Unknown 9 T,S 
Unknown 9+ T,S 

Hwan Kap 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 145'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Doug Redosh?
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 9, 2014

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This shows the 2nd pitch of the Unknown 7+ and thi...

Description 

This may or may not be a new route; however, there were some keys holds that required digging out fractured flakes to leave reasonable holds that most any climber would have cleaned...I believe.

So, the name is a term for a 60th birthday. In some parts of the world, reaching 60 is/was a major milestone. Happy Birthday, Doug!

From the top of the Unknown 7+'s 1st pitch, we continued with the 2nd pitch (5.5) to a 2 bolt anchor up and left of a tree. Deciding to explore upwards, we followed a weakness as it petered down. It began with easy horizontals and blocky holds. A rough-looking right-facing pocket/corner pushed us briefly right to a 0.75 size lieback/undercling that led to a nice stem back into the top of the corner. A crack beckons you upwards as it dwindles down. Suddenly, you get stuck in a choice of right holds and no feet or upwards on tiny crimps, your choice may be determined by your flexibility or lack thereof. There is another weird choice of dirt ledge with a precarious flake (that we should have cleaned) or slab left slightly (safer) to the domed-out finish. You may do as we did and finish at a pine-like tree for lack of obvious cracks with which to anchor. Linked as described above, it is more than 60m to the tree on top.

Descent: we took a ramp right perhaps 120', dropped down a bit. Then we took a ramp left to the 2 bolt anchor above 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route. From there, you can do 4 short raps off 2 bolt anchors or do 2 32m raps to the ground.

Location 

This lies above the 2nd anchor of the Unknown 7+ on the left side of the right half of the slab.

Protection 

A rack to a #3.5 Camalot with some extra black Alien to yellow Alien sizes will be comforting to your blood pressure.


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By Doug Redosh
Aug 9, 2014

The vision and the lead on this was all Leo. Thanks for the birthday greetings.
On the descent, one can unrope for all of it until just below the rap anchors. Then it is 10 feet of 5.1 slab, but with some exposure.