The route of first ascent in 1904.
Hike over Piute Pass and camp in Humphreys Basin, which is a high tundra like plateau west of the mountain.
Permits can be found here
Looking from Humphreys Basin there's a deep notch right of the main mass of the peak. A right slanting couloir heads up to it. Take this for a while until you can head left and into the south couloir, pass chockstones on the left at Class 4 until you reach a notch in the crest of the ridge (East Arete). This notch is known as "Married Men's Point" but I would advise you to keep going, even if you are married. The crux of the climb is next, a steep class 5 face for about 50 feet.
After this the wonderful summit is a short scramble away.
I recommend descending SW Slope and NW Face.
The south couloir to the right of the summit as seen from Humphreys basin.
Solo or rope and light rack.
BETA PHOTO: The Hutchinson Route.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Sep 13, 2010
I soloed this route and descended the SW Slope and NW Face route in the mid 1980's. I didn't really want to reverse the class 5 face down to Married Men's Point, or the South Couloir for that matter.
One entry in the register said it all, "how the heck do I get down from here?"