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Mt. Humphreys
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
East Arete T 
Hutchinson Route T 
Southwest Slope and Northwest Face T 
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Hutchinson Route 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Edward and James Hutchinson, 1904
Season: Late summer
Page Views: 1,373
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Sep 13, 2010

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Profile of Mt. Humphreys and Hutchinson Route take...


The route of first ascent in 1904.

Hike over Piute Pass and camp in Humphreys Basin, which is a high tundra like plateau west of the mountain.

Permits can be found here

Looking from Humphreys Basin there's a deep notch right of the main mass of the peak. A right slanting couloir heads up to it. Take this for a while until you can head left and into the south couloir, pass chockstones on the left at Class 4 until you reach a notch in the crest of the ridge (East Arete). This notch is known as "Married Men's Point" but I would advise you to keep going, even if you are married. The crux of the climb is next, a steep class 5 face for about 50 feet.

After this the wonderful summit is a short scramble away.

I recommend descending SW Slope and NW Face.


The south couloir to the right of the summit as seen from Humphreys basin.


Solo or rope and light rack.

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The Hutchinson Route.
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By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Sep 13, 2010

I soloed this route and descended the SW Slope and NW Face route in the mid 1980's. I didn't really want to reverse the class 5 face down to Married Men's Point, or the South Couloir for that matter.

One entry in the register said it all, "how the heck do I get down from here?"
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