This route has been recently retroed for your sport climbing pleasure. The first and fourth bolt are new.
After Scrambling into a large Hueco clip the first bolt and pull a small roof. Head up on moderate terrain passing the second and third bolt to the somewhat mystifying crux. Negotiate this and latch the large flake jug (at one time you had to place pro behind this). Clip one more bolt and continue to the anchors on more moderate but thought provoking terrain.
This route is normally referred to as 12a/b, but felt easier. Perhaps the extra notch in difficulty was for the pro needed at the bottom and top of the route.
Towards the right side of Major wall, Between "Banana Peel" and the dihedral all gear crack "Bon Bon".
4 Bolts to Anchors
|By Dave Wachter|
Jan 2, 2009
I agree with DTP. Worth doing for the short interesting crux.
|By Matt St. Peter|
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 14, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
So this climb was fun. But got on it thinking it was an 11+ and was surprised to find it to be a 12a in books and on here. 11d I think. I could see it being a 12 maybe if you had to place the pro but even then you would be placing it on a jug, no? Either way, fun climb!