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Hunting Party 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Wright, Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 2001
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 5, 2001

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Description 

Hunting Party starts up another slot/roof to a lower angle dihedral. In the large corner above, head up a tricky overhanging face to a roof, followed by several moves along the arete just before the anchors. Cruxes arise at the initial slot/roof and below the upper roof and both are 5.11c/d. The middle 20 feet have been led both on bolts or with several mid range Friends, either works, although the Friend placements seemed to draw me away from the climbing. Slings would help these placements. Hunting Party is a fun route because it has a little of everything: roof, crack, dihedral, face, arete all packed into a bit less than 90 feet.

Protection 

QDs only. This 85 foot route needs 12 - 13 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 60 m rope is probably needed. It is best to stick clip bolt # 2 to avoid unwanted rope drag.


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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 12, 2002

I'll take a look next time I am in the canyon. It may be possible to glue it in place, keeping it out of the road. However, if can cut loose, it's probably better to reef it off - with a guard posted down below. We have done that before and managed to have the road cleaned up before any cars showed up.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 19, 2002

We checked in on 5/17. The whole thing was chucked. Getting into the slot at the start is harder than it use to be but this probably doesn't up the grade very much.
By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Dec 6, 2002

If this is the route that begins with some face moves to a slot and has the big right facing corner OH with a horz crack at the top then it's no way 11d. Although I really liked this climb, I thought it was more like 10. I recently did two climbs at Checkerboad Lumpy rated 9+ and 10a that were harder than this. Or put it another way your saying this climb is as hard as tiwn owl finger crack 11a but really 11c? No way. --Ross
By Wade Easley
Jun 25, 2003

Hunting Party is a super fun climb, if it's the climb I think it is. The only problem is, the climb I was on started about 20 ft left of the climb with the obvious glued rock. Fell once climbing through the first roof, and again just after the slab/dihedral but below the second roof ( then exiting out left to a right leaning fist crack/flake. I hope to redpoint on my third or fourth try. I don't see myself redpointing an 11d with the thick love handles I hide under my new Prana shirt. I would feel more honest if I boasted to my buddies about climbing an 11b. All the holds are there, and of decent size. SUPER FUN!!
By Umph!
May 19, 2010

I might agree to 5.11a (was actually thinking 10d when I was on it. . . but it's not 11d).